Expert
Posts: 2824
  
Location: Snohomish, WA. | Instead of my usual path to finishing a car, I have decided to actually plan this a little bit. So I have 2 questions for those EXPERIENCED in the painting process these days. 1. Usually when working repairs prior to final blasting/stripping, in order to attempt to stop flash/worse rusting of repaired areas, I use Rust-Mort (basically phosphoric acid) worked into the metal with a scotch brite pad, let it do it's thing converting embedded rust, then clean with metal prep etc. Then a quick rattle can of primer is put down. I know, I know......primer doesn't stop rust unless it has a sealer over it. But I don't want to put sealer down when it's all coming off to prep for final paint. So question #1 here is.......what does a guy that is slowly working the body panels, etc. to cut out/control rust while in the repair phase do? What have you found to be the best way to preserve the metal while you are working it? Keeping in mind question 2 below. 2. I want to blast, prep, and lay down an epoxy primer throughout. Followed by any body plastic filler needed, high build primer on top of that, and then block sand till ready to shoot paint. I may want to shoot it myself, I may want to farm that out. But whatever I do, I want a BC/CC paint job. But I need it all to be compatible to avoid problems. So question #2 is..........Keeping in mind all the paint, plastic, primer, etc need to be compatible, should I go with one manufacturer, like PPG for instance (expensive stuff!!) or is there a more cost effective (read as cheaper) method a guy can go? What's your favorite system here? All thoughts welcome. Thanks. Mike |
Expert
Posts: 3578
 
Location: Blythewood, SC | The same product will solve both problems.
After you sandblast or chem strip the steel, you really should use something like Pickl-Ex, Metal Ready, or Rust-Mort like you are now. After you treat the bare steel with whatever acid etch product you like, coat it with a GOOD epoxy primer. PPG's DP90 is what I use. The current product is actually called DP90LF or some such nonesense (it means lead free to keep some owl in the north pole alive or whatever...) but the real result is that you want a GOOD epoxy. This will slow the flash rust you commonly see on old primered parts. I used this method on my truck. Keep in mind that the entire process from stripping the paint to laying the new paint took over 18 months, so it was stripped a long long time. I've had no problems. |
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 369
Location: buchanan,Ga. | Well Advance auto parts is now carring body paint ,primers/sealers and clears that is already reduced-user friendly ...they have it the most common colors....white,yellow,hugger or., blue,red,black,low gloss black,flat black they are packaged in one quart containers so it easy use to filter/strain as in load the pain gun can. with it....by going this way you could buy as you go...can't remember if it's ppg or du point....but it is automotive stuff that can handle the uv from sunlight...ect. |
Expert
Posts: 1812
Location: Slidell La. | I m not experienced with body or paint work , but am experienced with wasted money . DON T USE CHEAP materials . I got a quicky paint job , and cheap materials were used , clearcoat started popping after 4 years . I GOT what I paid for , if you want it to last use quality materials . As far as a little section at a time , instead of primer which is not moisture proof , use rattle can enamal . It will put a protective barrier temporarally . |
OK, time for you paint experts to come out of the woodwork!
