Just like those on my 64ragtop Dart, folks. A note: if replacing bulbs with LEDs, Polarity matters (critical!!) if you get the sockets turned wrong, the LEDs won't light!
BC
--I recently redid mine on my 63 Sp. Fury. Guessing yours are like mine, a bulb with a brass base that fit into a plastic socket that fits with a twist into a printed circuit board. So yes, my bulbs come out and the contacts with the circuit board are on the underside of the rim on the sockets. Mine were oxidized and needed lots of cleaning. I also replaced all of mine with LED bulbs. The results were dramatic, much brighter. One note, I believe the bulbs pull straight out, no twist.
Paul L.
--On Thursday, September 17, 2020 at 10:01:44 AM UTC-5 dodg...@xxxxxxx wrote:
Members
I am back at work with the 1965 Coronet dash board and was trying to test a light bulb from the cluster with my tester. I was putting the + and _ on opposite sides with a power supply fro a 12 V Battery.
The bulb did not light but when I looked at the bulb there were no broken filaments.
Q #1 Do these bulbs have to be installed in the dash when testing? On the Grid.
Q #2 Is the Bulb remove-able from the plastic casing?
Q #3 I show the bulb with a Part Number 2496-279 and would like to know what suppliers are available if the bulb is not separable from the Base?
Q #4 If separate from the casing my Chrysler parts book does not specify the code, watts etc.
Any help would be appreciated before applying my Caveman procedure.
Still cleaning out the magazines in the attic.
Jim
Coronet 500 - 440 CI.
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