should have added... you can jump the ballast... if it runs then that's it. Don't let it run long.... your putting full 12 volts thru the ignition system. But at least you will know.Doug63 Sport Fury ragtop--On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 11:40 PM, Doug J <63sprtfury@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Ballast resistor.Doug63 Sport Fury ragtopOn Fri, May 11, 2018 at 10:37 PM, dennis.1963ply <dennis.1963ply@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Hello,
I suspect as you probably know the current issue with the AutoZone switch involves the ballast resistor. In start the ballast resistor is bypassed and in run power goes through the ballast resistor.
If you don't have a good electrical diagram this site should help you:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=26
Check continuity through the Brown and Dark Blue wires from the ignition switch socket and the ballast resistor. Also check the terminals on the ignition switch with an ohm meter when turning the key without it being plugged into the socket.
Good Luck
Dennis C.
On Friday, May 11, 2018 at 8:09:04 PM UTC-7, TopBanana wrote:OK...fast forward...I determined that the OEM switch is garbage and the eBay seller won't refund my $ since it was "installed" (I guess around my tumbler & key?) Whatever.So I bought a switch from Auto Zone. It ohm's out across the IGN1 and batt terminals, and I've confirmed I have 12v to the IGN1 terminal with the key on. Car starts but dies when the key is turned to Run. Bought another one thinking something is wrong with switch #1. Nope...same thing. But one thing I DID discover was that after putting my original switch back in, and then jiggling it, the car started and ran until I bumped the key. I've not been able to do that with the AutoZone switches.Any way...what the %$#$ gives? What's the %$#@ing problem? Every aftermarket switch can't be bad! Plug looks good and uncoorroded. I have no %$#@ing idea what's %$#@ing wrong! Can anyone offer some enlightened suggestions before I start bashing $#!t in my garage with a %$#@ing hammer?! I just want to enjoy my car!!!
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot HackOn Tue, May 1, 2018 at 9:14 AM, Jimmy Peavy <peav...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Sounds like you have a 66 up tumbler, maybe the old switch was later than a 65?
On 4/30/18, 62-65-mail...@xxxxxxxxxxx
<62-65-mail...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> What's the Mopar NOS OEM switch part number?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary H.
>
>> -------Original Message-------
>
>> So I got to switch out and it was way easier than I thought.
>>
>> The switch I bought is a Mopar NOS OEM switch with the factory part
>> number I found in my dealer parts book. The old one I pulled out is
>> not Mopar, but an older replacement as it says made in USA on it.
>>
>> First thing I noticed was that the new Switch has an extra prongs on
>> the back for ground. Second thing is when I insert the tumbler into
>> the new switch, it won't turn at all. I'm really confused.
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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