OK...fast forward...I determined that the OEM switch is garbage and the eBay seller won't refund my $ since it was "installed" (I guess around my tumbler & key?) Whatever.So I bought a switch from Auto Zone. It ohm's out across the IGN1 and batt terminals, and I've confirmed I have 12v to the IGN1 terminal with the key on. Car starts but dies when the key is turned to Run. Bought another one thinking something is wrong with switch #1. Nope...same thing. But one thing I DID discover was that after putting my original switch back in, and then jiggling it, the car started and ran until I bumped the key. I've not been able to do that with the AutoZone switches.Any way...what the %$#$ gives? What's the %$#@ing problem? Every aftermarket switch can't be bad! Plug looks good and uncoorroded. I have no %$#@ing idea what's %$#@ing wrong! Can anyone offer some enlightened suggestions before I start bashing $#!t in my garage with a %$#@ing hammer?! I just want to enjoy my car!!!On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 9:14 AM, Jimmy Peavy <peav...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Sounds like you have a 66 up tumbler, maybe the old switch was later than a 65?
On 4/30/18, 62-65-mail...@ornocar.
> What's the Mopar NOS OEM switch part number?
> Gary H.
>> -------Original Message-------
>> So I got to switch out and it was way easier than I thought.
>> The switch I bought is a Mopar NOS OEM switch with the factory part
>> number I found in my dealer parts book. The old one I pulled out is
>> not Mopar, but an older replacement as it says made in USA on it.
>> First thing I noticed was that the new Switch has an extra prongs on
>> the back for ground. Second thing is when I insert the tumbler into
>> the new switch, it won't turn at all. I'm really confused.