Paul, I did my own. I get a shop discount and so got all my parts locally. I made sure to get Moog parts, and in regular rubber. I heard bad things about red polyurathane as far as making noise and harsh feel. I considered graphite but expensive and what is the advantage ? Ma Mopars worked just fine for a lot of miles and years. The top ball joint nut (special ) is a real bugger. I got mine out with a pipe wrench and was afraid that the fine threads and very few of them, would get messed up. Can't remember, but that top nut maybe be easier to handle if the spindle is still in the car. ( leverage) Be very careful putting the new ones back in as they could cross thread very easily. . I would recommend getting the correct socket. as I couldn't use a torque wrench and the spec is very high. Getting the old tapered tie rod ends apart can be a challenge. Soak well with PB blaster or eqivelent. Use the two hammer method, may need some heat, Don't beat on anything unless you have support to keep from bending something. Pickle forks and I do not get along well. I have some other methods that are to hard to explain here. Get the two part rubber bushings for the strut rods. I don't think the pitman arm has to come off. IIRC
I would be glad to come up and help tear down. I do have a shop manual if needed....................Steve.........MO
On Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 8:16:02 PM UTC-5, Paul L. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-le wrote:
I took my 63 to the shop today for a front end alignment. I had turned up the torsion bars for more ground clearance. Well they told me I need new ball joints upper and lower and new tie rod ends, plus a radius arm bushing (?). They estimated the job at $1200. I'm thinking I can do most of the work myself and save $$$$. I've priced the parts on Rock Auto and they are probably less than $200. Any pitfalls in doing this work?
Paul L.