Re: amps to volts
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Re: amps to volts



If you add any loads to your car use the relay method powered from your battery, not the factory wiring! I used that method on my headlights with brighter results and less stress on the system.
 
 
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 2/8/2015 12:56:42 AM
Subject: Re: amps to volts
 
Just don't add more of a load to your cars system.  Hi power headlight, Subs and amps (for a jammin radio) power windows, lock and other BS that your car wasn't built with or built for are going to strain the factory system.  If it's all stock and going to stay that way NP it will work as Bob and Herb said.  My car isn't going to be stock in that way and I'll change mine to something as the link already shared.  

On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 8:57 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
One more subject to address is the amperage of the Alternator people use to replace the original.  Are cars wiring harnes was designed to us a 45a alternator, anything larger (Bigger is better...NOT) is going to exacerbate any weakness mainly connections as Bob stated!  And he is dead on, "nothing really awful about the stock ammeter circuit!......."
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bob
Date: 2/7/2015 10:17:35 PM
Subject: Re: amps to volts
 
Well, there was a guy on the For A Bodies list doing a bit of that kind of work, but he's stopped providing those services.  That explains the dead links in my bookmarks anyway. 

There's nothing really awful about the stock ammeter circuit as long as the connections are clean and tight at the bulkhead connector and the ammeter itself.  The problems arise when loose
and/or corroded junctions overheat.  A thorough disassembly and cleaning. replacing damaged wiring hardware should give many more years of service.  Failure of the instrument voltage regulator,
however, could smoke the stock gauges.  Solid state IVR modules have been available on ebay, and instructions for building your own are also around.  A good article is here: My Darts and several other models had the IVR built into the fuel gauge, which complicates matters a bit.  I've seen articles dealing with that issue as well.  I think there was one on ALLPAR
and one on the Chrysler Imperial group, if memory serves.

Anyone else have any input??  I'm starting to get a little concerned and thinking about just gutting one of the spare clusters I have and installing all new 12-volt gauges and having a speedo shop
rebuild my speedometer.

BC



On 2/6/2015 9:10 PM, Bob wrote:
Their page does not mention converting the stock MOPAR amp meter to a VOLT meter.  As you probably know, the stock AMP meter has the full alternator current output running through it, and a VOLT meter merely taps into any ignition hot wire and has virtually no current running through it.  Converting the '63 Fury ammeter, like my '64 Dart ones, requires replacing the meter in the dash cluster and rewiring of the charging circuit to remove the high current path through the stock ammeter which is no longer needed.  There are several articles on the web about ways to do this.  Here's one: Note, this article calls for simply bypassing the ammeter which leaves a non functional gauge in your dash cluster.  There are VOLT meters that will fit into the place where the ammeter was in the stock cluster. 
There are folks who make the voltmeter gauge face look like the original ammeter, but with voltage markings.  It looks like some of my old bookmarks have expired or maybe those folks have refocused their services.

More research is needed.

BC



On 2/6/2015 3:03 PM, Herb wrote:
 

 

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