Yes I do believe so. I would think the pressure side should be going into the heater valve so that the core is without pressure at rest.
--Wouldn't it make a difference which hose you take off? Isn't one hose pressure and the other hose return.......................MO----- Original Message -----From: Richard KinsleySent: Sunday, December 28, 2014 12:50 PMSubject: Re: Heater WoesYou could check flow by removing the return hose, blocking the fitting it came off and placing the house end in a bucket. Then fire it up and test for. It should just take you a second to see if it flows and you can shut off the valve to see if it's working.
On Dec 28, 2014 11:31 AM, "Bill M" <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:--
I thought about that but the heater core only had 2 seasons on it and was clean & working fine when removed.--
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
On Sun, Dec 28, 2014 at 11:52 AM, Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
plugged up heater coreOllieAfter ~2 years, I finally got around to solving my leaking heater control valve, and then re-installing the box. After getting everything hooked up, I still have no heat. I've confirmed that both hoses get hot, and the valve is operational. I've been through several hot/cold cycles. My next step is to drain the system down and make sure I'm getting flow through the heater hoses and/or that I don't have air in the heater core.
Anything else I should check? I'm thinking it's gotta to be something stupid. The system is simple and should just work.
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3
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