Yup!! The other option you might consider is you can get a set of refurbished heads from Indy cylinder is a sub company I believe like 500 bucks I think Jason hit me directly if you want their info
Sent from my iPhone wow, Stop stop my aim is 400 crank HP :) Lets remember that.... And main reason for new alu heads is that they are ready to "bolt on" no need for machining (that costs time and money). or new valves / springs etc. Tero On Monday, October 14, 2013 4:45:01 PM UTC+3, mike creglow wrote: as far as aluminum heads, i would not shy away from them. i see no reason to throw good money at 45 year old castings unless you plan on running stock / super stock. a word of warning, do not bolt them on out of the box. have a mopar familiar machinist clean up the bowls, put on a good valve, and flow them. mine flowed at 273/193 @ .500 without porting. then get a cam that matches what your head's flow (or if you are dead set on the cam you want, have the heads ported to match the cam).
another thing, as mentioned before, modern cams and heads like cubic inches. consider putting in a 3.75" crank (440). with an over bored 383, that will give you ~430 cu.in. then you do not have to rev your motor to as high to get the same power. or better yet, score yourself a 400 block with a 3.75" crank.
also, remember that putting out more HP will require better cooling and perf mods to the drive train and suspension.
mike
On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 7:53 AM, Tero Kaarlela <tero.k...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Here is an option for Edelbrock: http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P5153524/10002/-1?parentProductId=1944474
Maybe even better choice? Tero maanantai, 14. lokakuuta 2013 14.58.51 UTC+3 Jason Rhoades kirjoitti:
I think your heading the best way I would buy the edelbrock rpm heads and smile smile smile!!! I think you lose a point of compression with aluminum head, no u don't actually lose the point the thermal energy is absorbed by the better heat soak of the aluminum Just means you won't have a problem with detonation at 10:1 plus better port flow at all valve lifts over the factory iron stock heads
Jason
Sent from my iPhone
So, Current heads are 2406516-7. Better than new alu heads?
Cam is Racer Brown SSH-25 is that ok? specs at : http://4secondsflat.com/Racer_Brown_Cam_Specs.html
Intake is Edelbrock TM-6 what would be best choice for daily driver?
Tero maanantai, 14. lokakuuta 2013 3.45.13 UTC+3 scott preston kirjoitti:
If you put the alley heads on you will be going backwards big time and kill power big time and the velocity and air speed will be hurt.A properly built iron head is better and you don,t need new seats.A 452/906/346 head matched and ported with minor bowl work will be better that a big port volume eddy head that will kill the air speed and carb signal.You can do as you please,but a 383 is too small for a eddy head,it will work on a 475+ cube motor and bigger but not on a small 383,mrmopartech 40 years of engine building.
On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 5:45 PM, Jason Rhoades <Ja...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Can you share the specs of that cam? Jason r In my opinion with 10:1 a bigger cam will kill some of the compression at low speed helping it to start easier( no starter kick back) and more streetable manners you will just need a looser converter in the transmission and a good cooler but it's soooo worth it !!!
Jason
Sent from my iPhone I am rebuilding 383 HP engine for my Fury. I am going to bore to oversize and use 10:1 pistons. I am planning to install new edelbrock aluminium heads(Because current heads need new seats and guides + valve work and that would cost as much) and roller rocker set with 1.6 ratio. Cam is SSH-24. Intake manifold is Torker and carb 700 Cfm vacuum holley. I am looking to get a good daily driver with about 400 HP. What do you guys think would this be a good setup or do I need to modify something to achieve this goal?
Tero
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