Re: LA block intermediate shaft install
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Re: LA block intermediate shaft install



Right, I understand that u can wire a cap any old way and the motor doesn't care or know which tower u chose for #1, as long as firing order is good, it will run. The concern is that cam is installed a tooth off or balancer has slipped.  I need to get a buddy over here so we can do the pencil trick and find true tip-top TDC and check that against the balancer mark.


On Fri, Oct 4, 2013 at 7:39 AM, Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Where the distributor is pointing initially and where #1 on the cap is
makes no difference.  #1 could be pointing @ the #8 cylinder so long
as you rotate the plug wire leads appropriately. It's more of a
convention to make the #1 cap node "point" to #1 cyl.

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3


On Fri, Oct 4, 2013 at 12:20 AM, Jim Auxier <auxierjim@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Stick a #2 lead pencil in the spark plug hole and watch for TDc to come
> almost as good as a dial indicator but cheaper
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 11:01 PM, Richard Kinsley
> <leroar.kinsley058@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Don't panic.  It's doubtful there's a big disaster. Put your finger over
>> the plug hole and verify you are on the compression stroke when coming to
>> TDC.
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 8:12 PM, neal zimmerman <neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> well, ok, i forgot to mention that in addition to twirling the pushrods,
>>> the timing mark on  the damper is at zero ( TDC) as well, and when i stick
>>> something down the spark plug hole I quickly bump into piston top. I am sure
>>> its at  TDC. I suppose I could try to put  a stick on top of piston top and
>>> WATCH, to see when it appears to crest and drop back down, and compare that
>>> to my mark on damper. I suppose in addition to my cam tooth fears, it could
>>> also be a slipped damper ring. I joggled with it more this afternoon and got
>>> the slot to settle in at 12 noon, but still not pointing at foremost intake
>>> manifold bolt, which would be about 11;30.I  suppose it could also be that
>>> motor has more miles on it since rebuild than previous owner told me and the
>>> timing gear is worn, could be they put in those crummy plastic tooth OEM
>>> units, instead of a good chain.
>>>
>>>   neal
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 4:22 PM, <Dodger7998@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> y ou need to find top dead center of #1 piston, just because pushrods
>>>> are not tight does not mean a lot, as the valves are closed other than just
>>>> at tdc., and depending on the cam, you may be able to turn the crank several
>>>> degrees before they start compressing so either go by timing marks or
>>>> physically check piston position
>>>>
>>>> In a message dated 10/2/2013 4:05:07 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
>>>> neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>>>>
>>>> OK, I primed the 360 with a dummy shaft and a drill, it went fine, but
>>>> reinstalling the intermediate shaft is not. Two  service manuals i have here
>>>> say when #1 piston is at TDC on compression stroke, the slot in the
>>>> intermediate shaft should be pointing at the foremost intake manifold bolt
>>>> on drivers side..this would be roughly 11:30 on a clock,.... . Well, no go,
>>>> all i can get is about 10:00 and 1:30. I know that #1 is on compression
>>>> stroke as i have the valve cover off and I can twirl both pushrods.  I have
>>>> tried numerous times, even pulling out the int.shaft, reinserting the dummy
>>>> shaft and rotating the oil pump a bit, to joggle that hex receptacle down
>>>> below. It  sure seems like the int.shaft is seated, I have even tapped it a
>>>> little bit with a drift to make sure it's down. Could this possibly mean
>>>> whoever built the motor might have been a tooth off on timing chain install
>>>> and the cam is running advanced or retarded?? Seems strange if that's the
>>>> case as motor  ran great when I was driving it.
>>>>    Thanks, Neal Zimmerman, Eugene oregon

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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