Re: Electric trouble

Jim,

There are different ohm resistors. The part that has 2 resistors; has one of each if I am not mistaken. i.e. .50 and 1.1 ohms Rich K is an expert has he has used both in his racing days.

Ollie

From: Jim Altemose

Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 4:53 PM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: Electric trouble

I think I have a gift for over-complicating things. My electrical problem turned out to be the coil (I think). I started measuring everything with the multi-meter and found the coil resistance to be 880 ohms between the main and plus. Book says it should be around 950 or more. Replacing the coil got me running through the weekend; I'll see how it goes.

I also checked the ballast resistor. Book says it should be a 0.50 ohms but I was reading around 1.1. Does that make sense? I checked both the the one that's connected and the new spare from my trunk and both were the same.

At least now I have a new ignition switch and my ground strap and oil sender and bulkhead and stuff all cleaned up nice ;)

Thanks for your advice; hopefully I'm good for a while, although I probably just jinxed myself.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Mon, Apr 1, 2013 at 11:31 AM, Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Great info guys. Thanks. I'll let you know how it works out.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 8:22 PM, Bob <64ragtop@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I spent some time tracing those wires on two different schematics I have for my '64 Dart. They may or may not be relevant to Jim's problem car, but on both of the drawings I have there are potential problem areas. The oil pressure send wire and the coil + wire both run through the bulkhead connector adjacent to the alternator charge wire to the ammeter. If the charge wire got hot enough to damage the bulkhead connector or the wires adjacent to it, that could ground the coil + wire back through the oil pressure sender. That fault could be intermittent if the damage is not too severe. Eric's point about the damaged or loose connection in the bulkhead connector is also relevant. Looks like time to check the bulkhead connector. Also, read up on that fairly common failure and how to fix it HERE:
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
We're closing in on it, folks!

BC

On 3/30/2013 6:12 PM, Eric Sturgis wrote:

It sounds to me like the main power line is either burned or loose connection I'd guess from the firewall connection or the amp gauge connection. A damaged or corroded connection or wire will not let full voltage though the wire and look like a delay on a light bulb and as soon as a higher load is placed on it the light will go out and nothing will work, as the connections are dirty or damaged. I'd look at that main wire.

On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 3:44 PM, Bob <64ragtop@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Jim,

New guy here, 64ragtop. Which car are we working on here? I may have a Factory Service Manual with wire schematics that would help figure this out. (and, in my opinion, you really should have one.) First thing, the oil pressure light IS acting strange! Have you tried disconnecting the oil pressure sender and just trouble shooting the lack of spark? I suggest this because the light should just come on when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If it's somehow related to the spark problem, lets just remove it from the picture and troubleshoot the one most important problem. The car will start and run without the light, but it will not start without spark. Try that and report back.

BC

On 3/30/2013 4:00 PM, Jim Altemose wrote:

/?DJ,

I'm not sure what you're asking. What do you mean by "put the oil pressure light on"? I didn't do any work on anything; it just started 'not starting' on it's own.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Sat, Mar 30, 2013 at 7:21 AM, D J <djohn14296@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Jim, couple of questions: Did it happen before you put the oil pressure light on? And if not, has any other work been done(especially), electrically or any work where you could have grounded a wire, by it rubbing on the metal?

DJ

From: Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 9:53 AM
Subject: Electric trouble

I thought I had my electric troubles solved on my 63 Polara 500 (383), but I guess not.

The symptom is getting intermittent spark. Battery is strong and I have a jump box on it. It cranks strong always. What I noticed was that sometimes I get the oil pressure light on and gas gauge moves. But sometimes not. If the oil light is on, I'll get spark and it will fire. If the oil light is not on, it will crank but will not fire.

At first I though it was a bad switch. It seemed to me that jiggling the key when I cranked made some difference.

I replaced the ignition switch and it worked right away so I thought I was out of the woods. But I tried again yesterday and it's back to the same symptom.

This time I dug a little deeper and it's strange. If I turn the key half way without engaging the starter, the oil light is off. But if I wait about 5 seconds, the oil light comes on. Then I try to crank and the oil light goes off again. I tried this about 10 times and it's consistent. Engage key half-way, wait 4 to 7 seconds, and the oil light comes on. Engage crank and oil light goes off. I'm convinced the oil light and getting spark are related somehow.

I'll have this weekend to play with it some more. Any advice for me heading into the weekend?

As always, thanks.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

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Tacoma, WA

1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
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