I've had nice results with new cars finishes using
http://www.meguiars.com/ products.
Cost effective, work well, well explained for the novice. I've
made 2001 vintage cars look like new. Cars that sit outside and
get trashed.
These are the steps I do...all by hand no machines (buffers)
1. A through bath. I use a combination of soft brushes (vinyl
tops, around lights and chrome, bumpers etc.), stiff brushes (wheels and
tires and sometimes door jambs, stubborn spots on the vinyl) soft cloths
(old t-shirts, terry towels) LOTS of running water. The soap
I use depends on the level of dirt. I've used Tide laundry soap
for just beat finishes (Tide can damage a paint job if you use a lot of
it or do not rises it well or let it dry on the paint), Dawn dish soap
works well...removes waxes, grease and bug marks well. You can
also buy a car wash soap...whatever you like. When washing it, the
running water rinses the wash rag so dirt don't scratch it, rinses the
car so soap won't dry on it, and the brushes. Rinse all the
time and keep the car wet so it won't spot. Unless you like
cleaning off spots too.
2. Use a Clay Bar to take off the packed in dirt. Yes
it's another bath. Get a clay bar kit, follow the
instructions. You will be surprise how much more dirt is in the
paint.
3. If the clear is scratched up use a scratch remover.
They make a clear coat rubbing compound for badly scratch up finishes
and a less abrasive product for lighter scratches. Pick the
product that matches your needs.
4. After removing the scratches, and you now have it as shiny
finish again, use either your favorite wax, polish or one of Meguiar's
clear coat protectorates.
That is what I do to modern finishes. My old Chrysler
paint...that was just beat and could not be saved, I used to wash with
comet cleanser then buff it out by hand and put on Carnuba wax. It
looked great at 15 feet. Up close...not so much....but it was
shiny
--
Eric
Tacoma, WA
1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
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