I've had nice results with new cars finishes using
http://www.meguiars.com/ products.
Cost effective, work well, well explained for the novice. I've made
2001 vintage cars look like new. Cars that sit outside and get
trashed.
These are the steps I do...all by hand no machines (buffers)
1. A through bath. I use a combination of soft brushes (vinyl
tops, around lights and chrome, bumpers etc.), stiff brushes (wheels and
tires and sometimes door jambs, stubborn spots on the vinyl) soft cloths
(old t-shirts, terry towels) LOTS of running water. The soap I
use depends on the level of dirt. I've used Tide laundry soap for just
beat finishes (Tide can damage a paint job if you use a lot of it or do not
rises it well or let it dry on the paint), Dawn dish soap works
well...removes waxes, grease and bug marks well. You can also buy a
car wash soap...whatever you like. When washing it, the running water
rinses the wash rag so dirt don't scratch it, rinses the car so soap won't
dry on it, and the brushes. Rinse all the time and keep the car
wet so it won't spot. Unless you like cleaning off spots
too.
2. Use a Clay Bar to take off the packed in dirt. Yes it's
another bath. Get a clay bar kit, follow the instructions. You
will be surprise how much more dirt is in the paint.
3. If the clear is scratched up use a scratch remover. They
make a clear coat rubbing compound for badly scratch up finishes and a less
abrasive product for lighter scratches. Pick the product that matches
your needs.
4. After removing the scratches, and you now have it as shiny
finish again, use either your favorite wax, polish or one of Meguiar's clear
coat protectorates.
That is what I do to modern finishes. My old Chrysler
paint...that was just beat and could not be saved, I used to wash with comet
cleanser then buff it out by hand and put on Carnuba wax. It looked
great at 15 feet. Up close...not so much....but it was
shiny
--
Eric
Tacoma, WA
1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
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