Re: Broken bolt blues

[kelly arnold <keltonm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

 A good friend of mine has a nice way of thaking out hard bolts. If you can drip some candle wax on the threads of the bolt it comes out real nice. I've used this for a long time now and it works. Good luck.


-----Original Message-----
>From: Tom Watters <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Feb 4, 2012 2:19 PM
>To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Broken bolt blues
>
>I've broke a few of these off before.  Can be a real pain.  Water Pump/
>Timing Cover bolts that go thru the water jacket should always be
>examined and usually replaced if corroded, so the next round of water
>pump replacement you dont hit up against this issue.
>
>My .02 follows
>
>If the broken bolt is sticking out far enough from the block to get a
>good set of Vice Grips on it, apply heat directly to the bolt and
>clamp down and see if you can get it to release.  Else, you or a shop
>is going to have to extract the broken bolt from the block.
>
>A left handed set of hardened drill bits and a good solid center
>punch, and possibly a set of easy-outs will be most likely needed.
>Hand angling the drill to be sqare with the block is key.  And start
>with a bit thats at least 1/2 as small as the bolt you are drilling
>thru.  eg, a 3/8 bolt, the pilot hole should be no larger than
>3/16th.  Probably a 1/8 bit to put a pilot hole slowly & squarely thru
>the center of the bolt.  Hardened steel bolts require slower speeds to
>drill thru and Oil the hole from time to time to keep the bit from
>dulling/burning.  Having the bit not square with the block, could
>screw up threads or the block.  Many times, the bolt will come off
>with just the first pilot hole, or the next size if drilling the pilot
>doesnt free it.
>
>For a 3/8 bolt, the 1/8" hole should be checked to ensure it is square
>and center before stepping up to a 7/32" bit (The Max i'd ever
>consider).  If that bit doesnt remove it, then using an easy-out is
>next step, paying careful attention NOT to break it off in the bolt
>you are extracting.  Easy outs can be useful, but if you break them
>off in a block, you have bigger issues because those are very hard to
>drill thru.
>
>Once you get it out, trace the hole with a tap, to ensure threads are
>clean and complete.  If you screwed the threads up, you may need to
>get a Helicoil and replace the threads or have a shop do it.
>
>
>On Feb 4, 10:23 am, Bill Paxton <w...@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>         Try to shock them with a hammer and use penetrant. Also if you can snug it up just a little might help out.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Doug J
>> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 1:06 PM
>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: Broken bolt blues
>>
>> Hi all,
>> Well, did it this time.  Had to change the water pump in the 63, (383
>> engine) so while taking belts loose, (been on a long long time) I
>> didn't get a quarter turn on the bolt going thru the lower bracket on
>> the power steering pump when I heard the dreaded SNAP.  By the looks
>> of the part of the bolt that came out, it must go into a water jacket?
>>  Now the one opposite on the alternator bracket feels the same, and
>> I'm not real wild about the one just above it either, although it has
>> moved a bit.  Hate to have 3 to repair.  Any bright ideas on getting
>> these out in one piece ?  Sure took the fun out of this project. :-(
>>
>> --
>> Doug,
>> '63 Sport Fury 'vert
>>
>> --
>> --
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>>
>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmlandhttp://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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>
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>Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
>1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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