Herb
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
St. Louis, MO.
&
-------Original Message-------
Date: 2/1/2012 6:54:09 PM
Subject: Re: Brakes need pumped to work, why?
Bleeders are on top. I'll try to adjust the rears. Is the "only
losing pressure once the pedal comes all the way back to the top" a
clue?
> Well, not upside down but side to side. R on L & L on R. Bleeder has to be
> on top or you will have an air pocket with the symptoms he is conveying. Or
> another solution, remove caliper and hold bleeder in the up position when
> bleeding, then reinstall.
>
> Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
> 1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Eric Sturgis
> Date: 2/1/2012 6:27:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Brakes need pumped to work, why?
>
> Very good idea Herb, but I don't think we can put them in upside down due to
> the hose being so dang short. At times I hate these boats, nothing ever
> works right. LOL But it may be posible if he has custom hoses and that
> would make the pedal go to the floor with all that air in it.
>
>
> Is the bleeder at the top or bottom of your calipers as they are mounted?
>
> Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
> 1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 7.0L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Eric R
> Date: 2/1/2012 6:12:35 PM
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> Subject: Brakes need pumped to work, why?
>
> I converted to AAJ discs. Used a 1976 Dart dual master cylinder. No
> leaks anywhere.
>
> I bench bled the master cylinder best I could.
>
> I bled the brakes using a hose and check valve into a jar of brake
> fliud. This works on all my other vehicles. I ran quite a bit of
> fluid through to make sure.
>
> Brake pedal goes straight to floor but will pump up quickly and hold
> pressure. As soon as I let up and pedal comes all the way to the TOP
> the brakes are gone again and need to be pumped. If I just let up a
> little I don't lose them.
>
> I then gravity bled them all for a few hours.. Two rears at same
> time , then two front at same time.
>
> Still get the same result.
>
> I thought I read something about the Dart M/C losing pressure
> somehow? Or, is it air in m/c? Bad m/c?
>
> Any advice is great ... I would loooove to drive this car oneday.
>
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> Eric
> Tacoma, WA
> 1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
>
> --
> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
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