Tie Rod Puller may not be wide enough for Ball Joints. Advance can
rent you a kit that has multiple tools in it. Put torque on puller
than use propane torch and it'll pop joint, with a loud bang. Much
easier with heat. You can rent another kit that has the proper ball
joint socket in it. Make sure balljiont is not cross threaded when
you start it and never start it with an air wrench. It'll have an
agressive stance for the first few turn and then the threads will even
it out as the pitch on them changes. For upper bushings you can use a
socket or I used a schedule 40 pvc coupler and a bolt or threaded rod
to make a cheap bushing puller/installer - there's pics on the web.
Another 50cent coupler will fit the new rubber boots perfectly to pop
them on if you size it up at the big box hardware store. ..
Balljoints take allota torque to tighten them all the way, you'll need
a good sized breaker bar and wear gloves in case something slips off.
I used PST stuff for my rebuild but I think the Moog balljionts look
like better quality.
> On Dec 15, 2011, at 9:19 AM, Bill Paxton <
w...@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > There is a ton of work here if it's not needed. Front brakes versus front end? The only thing that's common is you have to pull off the tire and brake drum!
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Christopher Glick
> > Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 9:10 AM
> > To:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: Front end
>
> > Jacob, I would (did) remove and clean up / paint all the parts that come off. While you're there I would replace all of it, inner / outer tie rod ends, ball joints, etc... I say that because as you get into it you may realize that it can be tough duty to fix those things and youu won't want to do it again anytime soon, so I figure Don't right the first time, fix it all and hopefully it'll be another 40 years before things will have to get fixed again. My 1/2 cent...
>
> > Christopher Glick
> > 1964 440 2 dr hrdtp
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jacob Fox <
imfast...@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: 1962 to 1965 Mopar <
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thu, 15 Dec 2011 13:32:52 -0000 (UTC)
> > Subject: Front end
>
> > Question, I'm doing my front drum brakes this weekend. The squeak in the front end is coming from a arms I believe, it's a deep squeak when u turn and body kindve "rolls" or if u bounce the front end with ur arms. Higher squeaks are when u hit little bumps really fast. Anywaysss, I was wondering while I had that goin on if there was anything easy I could fix while I'm down there. I never have done ball joints or anything like that before, but I figure I could change them while I'm down there. Keep in mind as I'm limited in tools cause someone stole them >:-( I got my handy dandy craftsman set at the moment! Lol
>
> > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > --
> > --
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > --
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> >
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>
> > --
> > --
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
> >
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>
> > --
> > --
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
> >
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>
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> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
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