Everyone has an opinion as how far from original they want to stray. If you want to keep it as original appearing as possible but upgrade to modern technology most auto parts stores carry a solid state replacement Voltage Regulator for our cars that works well with "No Wiring Modifications." The solid state VRs come with a shallow chrome cover that is glued on with RTV or silicone if you like. Just carefully pry the chrome cover off and using silicone re-glue the old cover from your old points type VR to the new base, bam, only you know for sure. There is NO operational difference between the 70s+ VR and the solid state replacement VR for our cars, unless you use the MoPar High Performance VR that charges all the time, and I would highly recommend not using it for street use. Also changing to the newer style VR brings up an alternator change and rewire. What a slippery slope!!
By the way if you can only find a replacement alternator with two field leads and not a single lead like came on our cars, just ground one of the field leads to the case with a short wire or ground the lead to the case internally if your confident enough, and use the other lead as came stock. Also the duel lead alternators will not care what lead you ground, just ground one and use the other!
As far as your ignition, for fear of starting another virtues of argument, to keep it looking stock, Pertronix is the way to go. I have used them on five of my cars were necessary with NO problems for 8+ years on my Sport Fury vert. I believe the trick is using there coil with the label pealed off or pointed down out of sight or one of equal ohm values. The ballast resistor, I bypass it by soldering a jumper wire across the leads on the backside that is unseen. If you want to change back to a usable unit, just cut the wire! The two people that I personally know that have had problems with the Pertronix setup just used their old coil trying to save money that in reality ended up costing them more in the long run because they burned up the Pertronix unit. That said there are several members that have not had the same experience or luck as I have and swear by the MoPar unit, but there goes originality with the wrong distributor and the box, ooo, what to do to hide the box?? I believe Accell now makes a point replacement module similar to the Pertronix unit. I have not tried one so have no pros or cons about there unit. Anyone on here tried one? Feedback??
To keep the stock look I use heat shrink tubing over the two wires going from the distributor to the coil but just shrink it down to look like one wire. It might take a couple of try's the first time. I route the heat shrinked part under the coil and then from under the coil I route the two leads to the appropriate posts of the coil. All your doing is tricking the eye to see what you want it to see.
Herb
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979 Dodge Aspen R/T Sport Wagon 360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
St. Louis, MO.
-------Original Message-------
Date: 11/14/2011 1:18:58 AM
Subject: Re: Electronic ignition conversion
I had same question recently and called 2 professional Dodge resto people and was told the same from both of them - get what is right for your year car. Ruth
On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 7:43 PM, Doug J
<63sprtfury@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi all.
Been needing to replace the old distributor in my 63's 383, so I went
digging through my old parts and found an electronic distributor, a
couple control boxes, and the wiring harness for a conversion system.
What I am wondering, is what I need for a ballast resistor, and if I
need to change the voltage regulator as well? Been awhile since I
messed with these things !
Thanx
--
Doug,
'63 Sport Fury 'vert
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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