Re: intake

[Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>]

If I got the edelbrock I was gonna see if that kit for the fuel line from front to back would work, since my fuel line runs up the front of the motor and to the front of the carb. 

I've seen those gaskets before...huge lol 

I was hoping to get by all the choke stuff by going with an electric. I know all that might not be original, which I love original, but I want it to be a dependable driver that I can go on roadtrips and if I have problems be easier to mess with. Figured it'd look Better under the hood. Idk...ima see if I can find an original 4barrel intake...I'm just trying to go the easiest, simplest, cheapest route, with the most dependability and ease of installation. I get in a rush to...original is prolly the better way to go and I should try to find the right parts. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 13, 2011, at 4:27 PM, Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Jacob,
> 
> I'm by no means an expert mechanic, so take my advice with a grain of
> salt; maybe there's better smarter ways.
> 
> That being said, here are some things I learned replacing my 2 barrel
> with a 4 barrel.
> The car is a 63 Polara 500 with a 383.  I swapped in a 65 Carter AFB.
> While I was at it, I replaced the sending unit, fuel lines and fuel
> pump all with 3/8 stainless instead of 5/16. But that's not necessary.
> 
> 1. The choke thermostat was different.  The 4 barrel requires a
> 'flatter' cover to clear the carburetor linkage.  Correct thermostats were crazy
> expensive.  I found that a 70-71 thermostat for a 440 six-pack setup
> works perfectly and can be had on Ebay for $45.
> 
> 2. I used a correct 63 intake.  Sand blasted in and painted it; no
> problem; looks great.
> Make sure the runners are super clean.
> 
> 3. The "U" bracket that holds the accelerator cable and kick-down rod
> wasn't right, but by bending it a little, I was able to get it to
> work.
> 
> 4. Needed new fuel lines to the pump.  The 2 barrel and 4 barrel have the inlet
> positioned differently.  BTW, Inline Tube's main line was absolutely
> perfect; dead on
> match for the original.  When  installing, start by the engine and
> work toward the back.
> The trickiest bends are where the line goes through the firewall and
> it takes some finagling.
> Also, they didn't have a stock pattern for the pump to carb line for a 4
> barrel with an in-line filter.  The stock pump to filter in line was
> fine, but they didn't have one from the filter out to the carb.  I
> bent up what I needed from a piece of curtain rod and sent it to them
> and they replicated it perfectly without any extra charges.  Maybe
> they still have the
> pattern from mine if you ask.
> 
> 5. You're going to be surprised when you pull the intake.  There's two
> silver foil 'pads'
> underneath.  These were tappet silencers or valley pan silencers.  You
> can get them below:
> http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1879747-P
> 
> 6. If you pull the valve covers and want to replace the gaskets, make
> sure you get the right
> hole pattern.  There's two different flavors.
> 
> I have a bunch of pictures of the original 2 barrel as I was taking it
> apart.  I'll post some new
> pictures of the 4 barrel as it is today and you can compare them.
> https://picasaweb.google.com/115013310552314897903/63Polara500
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> - Jim
> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> '63 Polara 500 (383)
> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> '71 Bronco
> 
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 3:52 PM, Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> Go with Lokar linkage..can use on both carb and kickdown. U can use it on
>> stock or aftermarket stuff. There is stuff cheaper than Lokar too. Nothing
>> to clean up an intake. You can port it some by hand too. Later you can buy u
>> a nicer intake and use same carb and linkage.
>> Ollie
>> 
>> -----Original Message----- From: Jacob Fox
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 2:05 PM
>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: Re: intake
>> 
>> Well there's no swap meets around here. I figured it'd be easier to find the
>> parts I need for the linkage adapters and stuff too. Plus I would have to do
>> rebuilds, no idea how to do one on a carb. I saw a 383 4 bbl intake on eBay
>> for 50 bucks but it's super nasty. Found a carb too, it's a Carter, needs a
>> rebuild for 160.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Sep 13, 2011, at 1:55 PM, "Gary H." <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>>> Why have you decided to go aftermarket? A factory 383 4bbl is often
>>> available at swap meets for under $50.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Gary H.
>>> 
>>>> -------Original Message-------
>>>> would this be more than i want for my car? Its just a stock 383,
>>>> everythings stock....just wanna go with 4 barrel carb.
>>> 
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>> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
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>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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