Re: Pertronix Equivalent

[fd_colorado <fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

+1 for interesting and logically conveyed info on ignitions.

Thanks, Chick.

On Aug 11, 3:31 pm, MO <mic...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Chick it was not a waste of time. Many ohers of us read your report
> and learned something from it.  I would rather see some first hand
> experience over advertising hype---anytime.........................MO
>
> On Aug 11, 4:02 pm, "Stephen Andrachek" <s.andrac...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Suit yourself and good luck.  An hour of writing you an email was just a
> > waste of time.
>
> > Chick
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "William Harrison" <bb...@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: Pertronix Equivalent
>
> > $395 for a distributor for my street driven car is a bit pricey....I'll stay
> > with my pertronix set up.
> > Later
> > Bill Harrison
> > 65 Coronet 2 dr post
>
> > --- On Thu, 8/11/11, Stephen Andrachek <s.andrac...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > > From: Stephen Andrachek <s.andrac...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Subject: Re: Pertronix Equivalent
> > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:43 PM
> > > Note: When I first tried to
> > > send this email I got a message telling me one or more
> > > pictures would not show up in the sent email and asked me to
> > > send it or not. Since I don't know what picture is
> > > screwed up, I'm sending it out. The links are there even if
> > > the picture or pictures are not. The
> > > pictures ARE at the links I provided.
>
> > > Davis Unified Ignition sells a distributor with the coil
> > > built into the top of the distributor. I bought one
> > > for my '62 Dodge but it is a very tall distributor and the
> > > '62's hood slopes down so much that the distributor wouldn't
> > > fit under the hood. Although I had the distributor for
> > > over a year (waiting on a useless engine man to get moving
> > > on my engine) D.U.I. (as they are also called) told me to
> > > send it back in the original box and they would refund all
> > > my money. And they did. They are from Tennessee
> > > and all their stuff is made in the U.S.A. They also
> > > make the finest spark plug wires I have ever seen and I
> > > bought a set of them and I'm not sorry I did.
>
> > > They also sell a tiny "Dyna Bat" battery that weighs 13.5
> > > lbs. and will crank your engine just as good as a big
> > > battery that weighs 3 times as much. I have one in my
> > > car. Last year I locked up my garage after taking a
> > > ride and my brake light switch sticks and I didn't notice
> > > it. The next time I went to the garage to take my car
> > > out the battery was dead. So I took it out of the car
> > > and it was November so I kept the battery in the house.
>
> > > In the spring I borrowed my friends car-fixing kind of
> > > place big battery charger. I hooked up my battery to
> > > the charger and guess what? The battery showed a
> > > normal charge and it did indeed have a full charge in
> > > it. I never used a trickle charger or anything to
> > > charge that battery after it went dead and I'm still amazed
> > > that it rejuvinated itself just by sitting for a while.
>
> > > This battery is full of gel and sealed. It is only
> > > $120 and comes complete with a mounting bracket. I did
> > > the brake light thing again and again the battery, though
> > > completely dead, rejuvinated itself in a few weeks. I
> > > don't know how they do that, but they do.
>
> > > Below is the distributor with the built-in coil.
>
> > > Here's a link to the companies "work" page where they hook
> > > up one of their distributors and test it and a whole lot
> > > more info:
> > >http://www.streetlegaltv.com/forum/d-u-i-street-strip-distributor-559...
>
> > > Here's a link to D.U.I.'s main page:
> > >http://www.performancedistributors.com/Youhave
> > > to scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on what
> > > kind of engine you have and on what product you wish to
> > > review.
>
> > > Here's a picture of the DynaBat battery. You can
> > > choose any of three terminal styles. Here's a link to
> > > the Dyna-Batt:http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm
>
> > > Here's a picture of a Mopar distributor. They make
> > > them for small blocks, big blocks and one for a Hemi.
> > > They come in 4 or 5 colors and so do their "live wire" spark
> > > plug wires. They make 2 different kinds of
> > > distributors, one with a coil built into the top of the
> > > distributor and one with a conventional separate coil.
> > > Now get this. You tell D.U.I. what curve you want in
> > > your distributor and they do it for you. I am talking
> > > about degrees of advance. One distributor degree
> > > equals two crankshaft degrees. Let's say you have a
> > > car that needs either a lot of initial timing to start your
> > > car. You can set your initial timing at 20 degrees or
> > > whatever you need. Then you tell D.U.I. to put an eight
> > > degree curve in your distributor. Thirty six degrees is
> > > generally considered max or near max (total timing from
> > > distributor and initial timing added together. If 20
> > > degrees initial timing is no good for your engine for
> > > starting purposes, have them put 10 or 12 degrees advance in
> > > your distributor which would give you 20 or 24 degrees of
> > > advance from the distributor. Then, to get your engine
> > > to 36 degrees total timing (or whatever you need) all you
> > > have to do is to set your initial timing at idle to either
> > > 16 or 12 degrees of timing and bingo!, your engine will now
> > > have that 36 degrees of total timing.
>
> > > Here's the one with the separate coil.
>
> > > Here are the ones with a built-in coil. The "click
> > > here" doesn't work on the pics in this email. You have
> > > to be on their web site to get results from the "click here"
> > > line.
>
> > > Here's a link to the "live wires":
> > >http://www.performancedistributors.com/livewire.htm
> > > You tell them what color you want, the length you want for
> > > each cylinder and they mark that cable with the cylinder
> > > number for you. You can also specify what angle you
> > > want on both ends of each wire. You might want three
> > > plug wires with a straight end on the spark plug end, two
> > > plug wires with a 90 degree bend on the spark plug end and
> > > maybe three plug wires with a 45 degree bend on the spark
> > > plug end. On top of that, you can also specify what
> > > ends you want on the distributor end too. You can get
> > > it coming straight out of the wire or you can get the
> > > distributor end with a 90 degree bend in it. If you
> > > manage to burn up a wire, they will sell you just one
> > > wire. Or two wires. Whatever you want.
> > > Here's what they look like:
>
> > > Obviously, if you are building a car that you want to look
> > > as stock as possible then this is not the stuff you
> > > want. On the other hand, if you are building a street
> > > rod where you keep the car looking pretty much stock on the
> > > outside, this equipment is highly recommended.
>
> > > This company stands by its products. I bought a kit
> > > for my PT Cruiser from them which included a set of "live
> > > wires" and a high performance coil. Then I added a
> > > good low-restriction air filter. Then I raced my
> > > friends turbocharged PT Cruiser. My car is a stick
> > > shift, my friend's car is an automatic. I pulled out
> > > quickly and feathered the clutch so I didn't spin much
> > > tire. I think I had three car lengths on my friend
> > > before his wheels turned over once. Then I thought at
> > > about the halfway point (1/4 mile race) that he would come
> > > blowing past me. That never happened. I put so
> > > many car length's on him that I couldn't count them.
> > > My car is not turbo or supercharged. The right
> > > equipment can make up for a weakness somewhere else.
>
> > > Besides Hughs Engineering, Mancini's and Dvorak's places
> > > which are all Mopar all the time, this company thinks very
> > > highly of its customers and will bend over backwards to keep
> > > you happy.
>
> > > Lastly, here is a picture of my engine with the live
> > > wires. I got red ones and powder-coated the caps that
> > > cover the crossram intake bolts red too. The block is black,
> > > the heads and water pump are silver and the intake is black.
> > > Note the billet plug wire separator just to the right of the
> > > valve cover. They come with either 2, 3 or 4 holes. I
> > > have some of each on each side of the engine. Also
> > > sold by D.U.I.
>
> > > Hope this info helps you and/or others.
>
> > > Chick
>
> > > -- --
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> > > person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car
> > > transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
> > > messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> > > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> > > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> > > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmland
> > >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to
> > > the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List
> > > Clubhouse" group.
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>
> > --
> > --
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> > directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmlandhttp://www.1962t....
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse"
>
> ...
>
> read more »- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.