From: Stephen Andrachek <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Pertronix Equivalent
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, August 11, 2011, 4:43 PM
Note: When I first tried to
send this email I got a message telling me one or more
pictures would not show up in the sent email and asked me to
send it or not. Since I don't know what picture is
screwed up, I'm sending it out. The links are there even if
the picture or pictures are not. The
pictures ARE at the links I provided.
Davis Unified Ignition sells a distributor with the coil
built into the top of the distributor. I bought one
for my '62 Dodge but it is a very tall distributor and the
'62's hood slopes down so much that the distributor wouldn't
fit under the hood. Although I had the distributor for
over a year (waiting on a useless engine man to get moving
on my engine) D.U.I. (as they are also called) told me to
send it back in the original box and they would refund all
my money. And they did. They are from Tennessee
and all their stuff is made in the U.S.A. They also
make the finest spark plug wires I have ever seen and I
bought a set of them and I'm not sorry I did.
They also sell a tiny "Dyna Bat" battery that weighs 13.5
lbs. and will crank your engine just as good as a big
battery that weighs 3 times as much. I have one in my
car. Last year I locked up my garage after taking a
ride and my brake light switch sticks and I didn't notice
it. The next time I went to the garage to take my car
out the battery was dead. So I took it out of the car
and it was November so I kept the battery in the house.
In the spring I borrowed my friends car-fixing kind of
place big battery charger. I hooked up my battery to
the charger and guess what? The battery showed a
normal charge and it did indeed have a full charge in
it. I never used a trickle charger or anything to
charge that battery after it went dead and I'm still amazed
that it rejuvinated itself just by sitting for a while.
This battery is full of gel and sealed. It is only
$120 and comes complete with a mounting bracket. I did
the brake light thing again and again the battery, though
completely dead, rejuvinated itself in a few weeks. I
don't know how they do that, but they do.
Below is the distributor with the built-in coil.
Here's a link to the companies "work" page where they hook
up one of their distributors and test it and a whole lot
more info:
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/forum/d-u-i-street-strip-distributor-5593.html
Here's a link to D.U.I.'s main page:
http://www.performancedistributors.com/ You have
to scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on what
kind of engine you have and on what product you wish to
review.
Here's a picture of the DynaBat battery. You can
choose any of three terminal styles. Here's a link to
the Dyna-Batt: http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm
Here's a picture of a Mopar distributor. They make
them for small blocks, big blocks and one for a Hemi.
They come in 4 or 5 colors and so do their "live wire" spark
plug wires. They make 2 different kinds of
distributors, one with a coil built into the top of the
distributor and one with a conventional separate coil.
Now get this. You tell D.U.I. what curve you want in
your distributor and they do it for you. I am talking
about degrees of advance. One distributor degree
equals two crankshaft degrees. Let's say you have a
car that needs either a lot of initial timing to start your
car. You can set your initial timing at 20 degrees or
whatever you need. Then you tell D.U.I. to put an eight
degree curve in your distributor. Thirty six degrees is
generally considered max or near max (total timing from
distributor and initial timing added together. If 20
degrees initial timing is no good for your engine for
starting purposes, have them put 10 or 12 degrees advance in
your distributor which would give you 20 or 24 degrees of
advance from the distributor. Then, to get your engine
to 36 degrees total timing (or whatever you need) all you
have to do is to set your initial timing at idle to either
16 or 12 degrees of timing and bingo!, your engine will now
have that 36 degrees of total timing.
Here's the one with the separate coil.
Here are the ones with a built-in coil. The "click
here" doesn't work on the pics in this email. You have
to be on their web site to get results from the "click here"
line.
Here's a link to the "live wires":
http://www.performancedistributors.com/livewire.htm
You tell them what color you want, the length you want for
each cylinder and they mark that cable with the cylinder
number for you. You can also specify what angle you
want on both ends of each wire. You might want three
plug wires with a straight end on the spark plug end, two
plug wires with a 90 degree bend on the spark plug end and
maybe three plug wires with a 45 degree bend on the spark
plug end. On top of that, you can also specify what
ends you want on the distributor end too. You can get
it coming straight out of the wire or you can get the
distributor end with a 90 degree bend in it. If you
manage to burn up a wire, they will sell you just one
wire. Or two wires. Whatever you want.
Here's what they look like:
Obviously, if you are building a car that you want to look
as stock as possible then this is not the stuff you
want. On the other hand, if you are building a street
rod where you keep the car looking pretty much stock on the
outside, this equipment is highly recommended.
This company stands by its products. I bought a kit
for my PT Cruiser from them which included a set of "live
wires" and a high performance coil. Then I added a
good low-restriction air filter. Then I raced my
friends turbocharged PT Cruiser. My car is a stick
shift, my friend's car is an automatic. I pulled out
quickly and feathered the clutch so I didn't spin much
tire. I think I had three car lengths on my friend
before his wheels turned over once. Then I thought at
about the halfway point (1/4 mile race) that he would come
blowing past me. That never happened. I put so
many car length's on him that I couldn't count them.
My car is not turbo or supercharged. The right
equipment can make up for a weakness somewhere else.
Besides Hughs Engineering, Mancini's and Dvorak's places
which are all Mopar all the time, this company thinks very
highly of its customers and will bend over backwards to keep
you happy.
Lastly, here is a picture of my engine with the live
wires. I got red ones and powder-coated the caps that
cover the crossram intake bolts red too. The block is black,
the heads and water pump are silver and the intake is black.
Note the billet plug wire separator just to the right of the
valve cover. They come with either 2, 3 or 4 holes. I
have some of each on each side of the engine. Also
sold by D.U.I.
Hope this info helps you and/or others.
Chick
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