Hello, I had overheating problems with my 383. Just a couple of comments on what I did to correct my problem. By the way, I am now doing OK in Yuma Arizona where it gets very hot. Try a new thermostat and not a standard one at the local parts store - http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/16400/10002/-1 This is what I use. If you put it in a pan with a standard stat you will see how much larger the opening is when it is open. I like your idea of drilling holes, I always do that. It really helps get the air out and gets a little circulation going as the engine heats up. I am running a 180 degree stat. I don't see a point in a 160 degree. When a thermostat is fully open and you are still running above normal it does not matter what the setting of the stat is - it is fully open! I went from a 3 row radiator that would not cool to a U.S. 4 row radiator that solved my problem. I see that you have a U.S. Radiator. My 3 row had been recored but the fin count was too low and did not transfer enough heat. The fins I am talking about are the ones that go between the rows. Mine that did not work well was about 10 per inch. A comment was made why not 5 or 6 row radiators. As stated it gives more air restriction but if you think about it only the first row sees outside air temperature, the next sees outside plus heat off of the 1st row and so on. By the time the air gets to the 4th row it is seeing hot air from the first 3 and not much heat exchange is getting done. Water in the 4th row is coming out of the radiator almost as hot as it went in. It is important to get enough flow but too much can also cause problems. If the water moves through to tubes too fast it does not get time to transfer heat. You have the 4 row radiator so it will take more flow, the flow will be divided between 4 rows and not just 3 row. A high flow water pump may help and there may also be a problem with your existing water pump that a new pump will correct. Don D. back in the day when he was on this board always suggested finding a smaller pulley for the water pump, that increases the speed of the pump. I never found the size he was referring to but if you can find a smaller one might be worth a try. I would talk to U.S. Radiator and explain the problems you are having. You should do well. The person I worked with was very good at going through all of the things that can effect cooling. Personally I tried everything from a different fan, a shroud to a LARGE electric fan with little or no improvement. When I talked to U.S. Radiator I explained the problem and that the car is in Yuma where during the summer 110 degrees is a normal day. I also wanted a copper radiator that looked stock. The radiator I got from them was the answer. I am now running the original fan, no clutch, no shroud and doing very well. If you had given the problems you are having and did not mention the new U.S Radiator I would have suggesting getting one from them and getting a 4 row. Good luck, I know the frustration of having an over heating problem. Take Care Dennis C. On Aug 8, 5:44 pm, Bill M <y1topbanan...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I installed a new and now my Coronet is definitely running warmer than > it should. > > Here's the list... > 318 Poly, Mild cam, 4-bbl > New 4-core copper radiator (US Radiator) > New 180 deg thermostat > New 16LB cap > > No known issue with the water pump. > 7-blade fan w/ clutch (seems to be working) ~1 inch from the rad. > No fan shroud > > I swapped the previous 3-core radiator out because it was leaking. > With the 3-core setup (no shroud) it never got as hot as fast as it > does now. In fact after sitting just a few minutes at a light, this > 4-core gets as hot as the 3-core rad did on only the hottest days in > July/August. > > I know the lack of a shroud is 1 problem, but I just can't shell out > $250 +$50 for mounting hardware for it right now. > > Considering I basically swapped only the rad, it should be acting > better than this. > > Any thoughts? > > Bill M > 65 Coronet 500 'verthttp://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html > 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie > 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3 -- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.