Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?

Jim,

I don’t count the cost over time; lengthy projects have that built-in loss of memory fail-safe; you don’t remember how much you spend when it takes months and years with modest/incremental expenditures.

That 380HP 360LA Crate motor just saved you a bundle on building the Poly or any other engine!

Gary P.

From: dcdriver@xxxxxxx

Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 9:12 PM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?

Gary:

I'd rather not keep track of what rebuilding my 63 Polara 500 is gonna cost.I'm afraid I'll change my mind at the costs...LOL I'm quickly finding out that nothing is gonna be cheap.My plans are to install the 380HP {360ci}crate motor that I have.I'm finding out that everything is gonna cost me $400+ for the misc.parts and THAT'S each piece....I'm finding it awfully hard to believe that anyone can ask $800 for the TWO headlight rings and not bat an eye lash in doing so.LQQKS like I'm in for one heck of an eye opener....LOL Oh well who ever said having fun was cheap huh?Thia "lil" project is gonna cost me alot more than I planned but I'm not gonna give up.I've been a MOPAR freak for way to long to let a lil cost stop me from enjoying this car.

Jim M

63 Polara 500

96 Dodge INDY RAM

99 Durango 4X4

83 Jeep CJ-7
and cough cough 01 Monte Carlo LS {late wife's car}

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wed, Jul 20, 2011 3:11 pm
Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?

Gary,

Well I guess my "general goal" is to have something that will have
PLENTY of HP, and still cruise well as we drive this car a TON. I only
pay attention to advertised power as a general number.

My INITIAL thought was a ~400 CI stroker setup (4" crank?) that will
run on 93 octane pump gas. I like to 400 CI simply because it's a nice
LARGE number!!! :),  but maybe the ~360 CI setup will create the power
I want...dunno. I definitely want to surprise the $h!t out of anyone
that wants to play on the street...especially smart a$$ mustangs!!

I don't have an expected budget because I just don't have any clue
what parts or machine work it will cost, and what of both will be
required...I guess I was looking for the recipes of parts and work
(and approximate costs) that you mentioned in your email so I can
start totaling it up...and allocating funds!!!

Bill

On Wed, Jul 20, 2011 at 2:47 PM, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> OK; let us know how we can help.  I suggest writing down your planned buid
> with the cost of parts and machine work next to the "plan."  Be honest with
> your goals/usage and don't let any claim of rear wheel HP & Torque cause you
> to stray from building a "fun" package...like I said, 350+ REAL HP will give
> you traction issues that you can easily/inexpensively harness; any more than
> that will require more money for suspension mods....
>
> Gary Pavlovich
>
> -----Original Message----- From: fd_colorado
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:42 AM
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
> Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
>
> Thanks everybody!
>
> Ditto...Esp. Gary for all the great info!
>
> On Jul 19, 9:21 am, Dave64 <lt7d...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Great info, Gary - thanks.
>>
>> Dave
>> '64 Belvedere 2DHT
>> 318 Poly, Push Button Auto
>> Originally Florida A/C Car
>>
>> --- On Fri, 7/15/11, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlov...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> From: Gary Pavlovich <glpavlov...@xxxxxxx>
>> Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Date: Friday, July 15, 2011, 12:19 PM
>>
>> I would agree with Dodger that the 360 can build easy HP as the recipes
>> are numerous and you have any shop that can do the build.  However, you need
>> to determine what your real goals and intentions for your car is. Reading
>> your e-mail lets me know it is an “original” car so do you want to have the
>> original look with a wallop packed under the hood – ala, sleeper? How much
>> HP do you want vs. what you really need to lose traction on the street with
>> Drag Radials?
>>
>> We can only give you our opinions as to what we would do but we know what
>> kind of car we want to build.
>>
>> Saying that, I will give you my opinion and best guess as to what you are
>> looking for in your build; pump gas engine with enough HP and torque to
>> smoke the tires at will but not unmanageable street manners – it must start
>> easily, not require extensive tuning to maintain driving pleasure, not
>> require more than 3500rpm stall convertor and a 3.91 rear gear...a nice
>> looking, hard running, sleeper car, with that nostalgic 1963MOPAR look & Hot
>> Rod stance (perhaps aftermarket rims and 235/.60-14 or 15 Drag Radials;
>> Hoosier/BFG/MT) enough mods to stay within your budget w/o compromising your
>> “performance.”  Need to assess your true street to strip driving ratio as
>> well.
>>
>> I would choose the 318 Poly in Hot Street modified form or a 360 Stroker
>> Poly.
>>
>> Reasons:
>> No expense and hassle of buying a 360 core engine and changing the motor
>> mounts and swapping to an externally balanced convertor for the externally
>> balanced 360 engine.
>> The 360 is ubiquitous (everywhere/common)  and doesn’t look
>> “right/correct/or impressive at all” in the engine bay of a 1963 Plymouth”
>> and will maintain or increase the value and or desirability of your car.
>> It will also “personalize” your car...think about what that means to you.
>>
>> The 318 Poly is impressive looking (wider than a 440) and appears
>> correct/nostalgic/generates more attention & questions than a HEMI in your
>> engine bay...that really is worth something at cruise nights...
>>   “    “      “ will not require any chassis modifications other than to
>> replaced the old parts – no modifications/adjustments to anything.
>>   “    “     “  High Performance parts are all available and easily
>> obtained new except for the intake manifold and there are plenty available
>> on E-bay and swap meets to make this a non-issue; especially the dual quads.
>> The 318 Poly will meet and exceed all your HP & Torque goals without
>> exceeding your budget and easily make 425HP and 450ft.lbs.torque in 360”
>> econo Stroker trim and 350-375HP in HOT stock stroke trim.
>> NOTE: read Nick Tiberio’s e-mail comments about his 360 Stroker Poly I
>> forwarded to this list and question some Poly builder/owners about the pros
>> & cons of their “built” Polys vs. other options.
>> You don’t need more than approx. 350-375 REAL HP to reach your goals
>> outlined in your e-mail with your chassis.
>>
>> HOT Stock Stroke Poly:
>> OEM pistons with head mill to achieve 9 to 9.5 to one ratio; 10 to 1 can
>> be had as well.
>> Port & polish the heads – 211cfm intake is enough flow for 425HP and
>> 450ft. lbs. of torque; this with headers/exhaust gives you the most bang for
>> your buck with an aftermarket camshaft and four barrel induction.
>> 264/.450” (222@.050”) 110LC solid to 262/.460” (214@.050”) HYD. HP Poly
>> Cam; or 284/.480-.510” (240-242@.050”)108-110LC Poly Solid Cam to  270/.480”
>> (230@.050”) 110LC HYD. HP Poly Cam
>> Four barrel intake or dual quad
>> Stock 1.84/1.56” valves OK or upgrade to 1.94/1.60” if budget allows
>> TTI Headers a must with good 2 1/2” dual exhaust w/H or X pipe through
>> Dynomax Super Turbos or Flowmasters...personal choice here
>> A 2500-3000rpm  high stall convertor is recommended, but not necessary for
>> the first stage of cam profiles but mandatory for the second choice of cam
>> profiles and preferably a 3000-3500rpm convertor
>> Rear gears will greatly enhance any engine modifications and a minimum of
>> 3.23 gears are requisite for any build past stock if you want to “feel” the
>> value-added to your engine build; 3.23-3.91 for the first step and 3.55-4.10
>> for the second step recommended.
>> Electronic Ignition for stock and modified Poly recommended
>> Engine balancing and unleaded seats are “standard” in all engine builds as
>> far as I am concerned.
>>
>> 360 Stroker Poly:
>> All the above with the exception of using LA low-compression truck pistons
>> and fly-cutting the pistons for an intake valve relief; choice of 9 to 10 to
>> 1 compression ratio.
>>
>> Please e-mail me off-list for more information or a list of the parts
>> suppliers, local machine shops, and current prices I have been able to
>> catalog for our “PolyHeads” to make your shopping and engine building easy.
>> Prices are always changing in the marketplace but I try to do a search for
>> the best part at the lowest price and pass it along to our Mail List people.
>>
>> Take care,
>> Gary Pavlovich
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Dodger7...@xxxxxxx
>> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:43 AM
>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
>>
>>
>> Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, but
>> the parts and availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,,  you
>> will end up with more HP, for less bucks,,,,,
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
>> fd_color...@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>> Sleeper Build
>>
>> Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
>> ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you
>> think you'd achieve?
>>
>> the car:
>>
>> 1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
>> totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
>>
>> Parts budget of $2500 - $5000
>>
>> some of my thoughts are...
>>
>> front disc brake conversion
>> if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire
>> awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500
>> bucks
>>
>> ???
>>
>> --
>> --
>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
>>  directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
>> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
>> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

-- 
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly 
to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as 
other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse 
public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume 
of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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