Hi Dave,I would rebuild the original if the bore is not too pitted. You can hone out some pitting and a slight amount will not adversely affect braking action, but deep pits will require a different master cylinder. I have bought rebuilts that wouldn't work-so if you buy a reman- buy good quality. You shouldn't have mismatched drum sizes on your car. The front brakes do the majority of the work so they typically have a larger friction area than the rear. Are the rears locking up before the fronts?
Mike LeFevre On 6/12/2011 6:19 PM, Dave64 wrote:
Thanks for the advice, Joe. Even though I don't notice any leak down in the fluid - and the brakes work well - I've looked into that a bit. I'd be interested in opinions on rebuilding the MC vs replacing with new or remanned - and also recommendations on brands preferred. All 4 wheel cylinders are new in the past 2 years. I'm running the original 10" drums up front and 11" drums in the rear. Thanks, Dave '64 Belvedere 2DHT 318 Poly, Push Button Auto Originally Florida A/C Car --- On Sat, 6/11/11, Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:From: Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was Electrical question) To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Saturday, June 11, 2011, 9:45 PM after viewing your pics dave that spring your seeing with the drips of old brake fluid hanging on should not be seen your rubber boot is deteriorated and will only lead to problems down the road it is already leaking some and not having the rubber boot on there will let dirt and moisture in to the bore on your master cylinder, eventually it will fail,having the old single resovoir master cylinder you better make sure your emergency brake works and practice applying it.If that were mine i think i would pull your master and either rebuild it or replace it cheaper than a front clip just my 2 cents but i have had failure in our single pot masters before and luckily i was only moving slowly and able to stop with quick e brake response stopping about 6 inches before hitting asteel locked gate.............--- On Fri, 6/10/11, Dave64<lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:From: Dave64<lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was Electricalquestion)To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Friday, June 10, 2011, 6:15 PM Thanks, guys. Here are some pics of mine. Some are with the pedal up and somewithit depressed. It's making contact with the bar ofthepedal and not the lighter colored pad (nub) - eventhough itmay look different in some of the pics. I think it should be lined up with the pad (nub), if I'm seeingwhatyou guys are describing. What do you guys think? Thanks, Dave '64 Belvedere 2DHT 318 Poly, Push Button Auto Originally Florida A/C Car --- On Fri, 6/10/11, Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:From: Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was Electricalquestion)To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Friday, June 10, 2011, 8:01 AM nub on the end of the rod that is exactly how mine is on my 65 500 ,i recentlychangedmymaster cyllinder and the new one did not have thenubbehindthe bushing at the pedal hook up pivot pointthattouchesthe white plastic plunger on the switch and mybrakelightsstayed on so i had to pull the master cylinderbackoff andchange the rod from my old to the new!works finenowbut idont know why the company i bought my new masterfromsentme one without the nub on it?actually when iinstalledthenew master i thought that i could loosen theswitchand moveit forward enough to hit the nobless new rod butnoluck, sowhat i found out was it would have been mucheasier tobenchinspect old and new and switch out the rodsbeforeinstalling rather than install, pull, switchrods,andinstall then rebleed as there is not alot ofroomunderthere and all four bolts holding the master tothefirewallhave the nuts on the inside a air ratchet suremadethejob much easier!!!! although my 66 fury hasthenublessrod and the switch plunger actually hits on theflatfrontof the brake pedal arm.............--- On Fri, 6/10/11, MO<micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:From: MO<micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (wasElectricalquestion)To: "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail ListClubhouse"<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>Date: Friday, June 10, 2011, 2:06 AM Dave , IIRC there is an extension of the rod that comes out of the master cylinder to the brake pedal on pasttheattaching bolt- bushing. That extension pushes on the brakelightswitch. I am pretty sure that is the way on my 64 Dodge non-powerbrakes.......................MO. On Jun 9, 9:17 pm, Dave64<lt7d...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:I was fooling with mine this afternoon.Ifoundthatthe plunger was all gummed up inside theswitch.Isprayedit up with WD-40 to get it working again(must beaspringinside that was sticking). So it seems tobeworkingfinenow. A couple of questions, though.The end of the plunger has a knob onitthatlookslike it should line up with a larger part ofthepedalmechanism, but mine lines up with a skinnypartofthepedal. Perhaps that's correct? Thebrackettheswitch isattached to is slightly loose, so theswitchdoesn'tseem tostay in the exact proper location and thebrakelightsnowstay on unless I pull up on the pedal. Itriedtoget tothe bolt that tightens the bracket up, butwhatabuggerthat is to reach and get a wrench on. Mydaughterhas somesuccess getting in there with theinstrumentpanelremoved.But she had to go to work before I gotthingsfinished up.We'll try it again when we have time.I'mthinkinga newswitch would be a good idea anyway, butlookingforany tipsyou guys may have on the position of theswitchandgettingto that mounting bolt above the steeringcolumn.Thanks, Dave '64 Belvedere --- On Wed, 6/8/11, 64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx>wrote:From: 64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Electrical question To: "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar MailListClubhouse"<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>Date: Wednesday, June 8, 2011,7:15 AMMy brake lights now work. Icleanedoff the terminals and shot some electrical contact spray on themand intheplunger area onthe switch and it works great but willprobablybuyaswitch andreplace it anyway, they are reasonablypriced.i did pull the grounding strap onthefueltankand sandedthe gas lines. With my handy dremel toolcleaned outthecontactsurfaces on the strap, still nothing. So Iwill dosometesting on thesending unit and clean some otherconnectionstomakesure I have agood ground. So will see what happens.Couldbethevoltagelimiter in the cluster too. On Jun 5, 8:36 am, "Ollie"<satellite1...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:I suspect that the brakelightproblemis inthe turnsignal switch. I havehad 2, 65 Plys and both havethesameproblem.Wiggle the turn signal leverand the brake lights will goonandoff.Always theright side on both mine.Ollie -----Original Message----- From: Dave64 Sent: Sunday, June 05, 20118:07AMTo: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: ElectricalquestionAnother possibilty on yourbrakelightscould be theturn signal switch. Ithink mine is bad -intermittentlyworks/doesn't work.I have a new DanielStern switch on the bench -justneedto getaround toinstalling it.Dave --- On Thu, 6/2/11,64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx>wrote:From: 64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: ElectricalquestionTo: "The 1962 to 1965MoparListClubhouse"<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Thursday, June 2,2011,10:04 AMYup all of the other lightswereworking. Iwillcheck theground strap and I had thought abouttheswitchanddoing whatyou said.Will check it out tonight. Thanks On Jun 2, 7:37 am, Dodger7...@xxxxxxx wrote:Fuel gauge,,,,,,,didtherest ofyourgauges workproperly? if so it ismore than likelythegroundstrapBrake lights,,,,,didyourinterior lights,and dashlights work ? if notcheck fuses, iftheydidwork,jumper thewires at thebrake light switch,if they workthen, itistheswitch,,,, iftheystill do not work, Iwouldfind the rearchassisharnessplugconnection, andcheck for corrusion,bothyour taillightsandfuelgaugeprobably gothroughthat same plug,,,In a message dated6/2/20116:47:42 A.M.CentralDaylight Time,wchus...@xxxxxxxxxxwrites:Well the Polararolledoutofthe garageunder itsown power yesterdayafternoon. Whatagreatfeelingafter itsinnardsand outardscluttering up mygarageforthelastyear.I replaced thefuelsendingunitabout 4years ago.While the car hadbeen in my garagewaiting togobacktogether the gasguage had beenworking fine.Yesterdaystarted itup droveit a fewmiles and it wasok just low ongas.About anhourlaterafter puttingthe wheel coversback on I start itupandtheguage isbottomed outbelow the Emark.So I shut itoff,startit upagainsame thing.Get some gas init, still the samething.Latertook my wifeout to DQas a littlecelebration andcruisesowhilewaiting inline theguage starts tomove in the fulldirectionthenstopped andwent toempty again.I will check outthefuelsending unitwires andground straptonight.Anybodyhaveanythoughts onthat?Next issue. Brakelightswereworking finebeforeyesterday. Now theyare not. NoticedthatatDairyQueen alsowhen i didnt seemybrakelightreflectionin the bigaXX Navigatorbehind me. Maybetheswitchforthe brakelight at thepedal? if sowhat would be agoodsourceto getit from?Other than that itwasagreatfeeling tobe back inthe bucket seatsagain all 4windowsdown.Will post somepicssoon.-- You received thismessagebecause you aresubscribedto the Google Groups"The 1962 to 1965MoparListClubhouse" group.To post to thisgroup,sendto 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxTo unsubscribefromthisgroup,send emailto1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For more options,visitthisgroup athttp://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.-- You received thismessagebecauseyouaresubscribed to theGoogle Groups "The 1962to1965MoparMail ListClubhouse"group. 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