Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question be
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Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question before that!)



Hi Dave,
I would rebuild the original if the bore is not too pitted. You can hone out some pitting and a slight amount will not adversely affect braking action, but deep pits will require a different master cylinder. I have bought rebuilts that wouldn't work-so if you buy a reman- buy good quality. You shouldn't have mismatched drum sizes on your car. The front brakes do the majority of the work so they typically have a larger friction area than the rear. Are the rears locking up before the fronts?
Mike LeFevre







On 6/12/2011 6:19 PM, Dave64 wrote:
Thanks for the advice, Joe.  Even though I don't notice any leak down in the fluid - and the brakes work well - I've looked into that a bit.  I'd be interested in opinions on rebuilding the MC vs replacing with new or remanned - and also recommendations on brands preferred.  All 4 wheel cylinders are new in the past 2 years.  I'm running the original 10" drums up front and 11" drums in the rear.

Thanks,

Dave
'64 Belvedere 2DHT
318 Poly, Push Button Auto
Originally Florida A/C Car


--- On Sat, 6/11/11, Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx>  wrote:

From: Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was Electrical question)
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Saturday, June 11, 2011, 9:45 PM
after viewing your pics dave that
spring your seeing with the drips of old brake fluid hanging
on should not be seen your rubber boot is deteriorated and
will only lead to problems down the road it is already
leaking some and not having the rubber boot on there will
let dirt and moisture in to the bore on your master
cylinder, eventually it will fail,having the old single
resovoir master cylinder you better make sure your emergency
brake works and practice applying it.If that were mine i
think i would pull your master and either rebuild it or
replace it cheaper than a front clip just my 2 cents but i
have had failure in our single pot masters before and
luckily i was only moving slowly and able to stop with quick
e brake response stopping about 6 inches before hitting a
steel locked gate.............
--- On Fri, 6/10/11, Dave64<lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

From: Dave64<lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was Electrical
question)
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Friday, June 10, 2011, 6:15 PM
Thanks, guys.  Here are some
pics of mine.  Some are with the pedal up and some
with
it depressed.  It's making contact with the bar of
the
pedal and not the lighter colored pad (nub) - even
though it
may look different in some of the pics.  I think it
should be lined up with the pad (nub), if I'm seeing
what
you guys are describing.  What do you guys think?

Thanks,

Dave
'64 Belvedere 2DHT
318 Poly, Push Button Auto
Originally Florida A/C Car


--- On Fri, 6/10/11, Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

From: Joseph Bitterman<furyrestored@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was Electrical
question)
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Friday, June 10, 2011, 8:01 AM
nub on the end of the rod that is
exactly how mine is on my 65 500 ,i recently
changed
my
master cyllinder and the new one did not have the
nub
behind
the bushing at the pedal hook up pivot point
that
touches
the white plastic plunger on the switch and my
brake
lights
stayed on so i had to pull the master cylinder
back
off and
change the rod from my old to the new!works fine
now
but i
dont know why the company i bought my new master
from
sent
me one without the nub on it?actually when i
installed
the
new master i thought that i could loosen the
switch
and move
it forward enough to hit the nobless new rod but
no
luck, so
what i found out was it would have been much
easier to
bench
inspect old and new and switch out the rods
before
installing rather than install, pull, switch
rods,
and
install then rebleed as there is not alot of
room
under
there and all four bolts holding the master to
the
firewall
have the nuts on the inside a air ratchet sure
made
the
   job much easier!!!! although my 66 fury has
the
nubless
rod and the switch plunger actually hits on the
flat
front
of the brake pedal arm.............
--- On Fri, 6/10/11, MO<micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

From: MO<micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch (was
Electrical
question)
To: "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List
Clubhouse"
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Friday, June 10, 2011, 2:06 AM
Dave ,  IIRC there is an
extension of the rod that comes out of the
master cylinder to the brake pedal  on past
the
attaching bolt-
bushing. That extension pushes on the brake
light
switch.  I am pretty
sure that is the way on my 64 Dodge non-
power
brakes.......................MO.

On Jun 9, 9:17 pm, Dave64<lt7d...@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
I was fooling with mine this afternoon.
  I
found
that
the plunger was all gummed up inside the
switch.
  I
sprayed
it up with WD-40 to get it working again
(must be
a
spring
inside that was sticking).  So it seems to
be
working
fine
now.  A couple of questions, though.
The end of the plunger has a knob on
it
that
looks
like it should line up with a larger part of
the
pedal
mechanism, but mine lines up with a skinny
part
of
the
pedal.  Perhaps that's correct?  The
bracket
the
switch is
attached to is slightly loose, so the
switch
doesn't
seem to
stay in the exact proper location and the
brake
lights
now
stay on unless I pull up on the pedal.  I
tried
to
get to
the bolt that tightens the bracket up, but
what
a
bugger
that is to reach and get a wrench on.  My
daughter
has some
success getting in there with the
instrument
panel
removed.
  But she had to go to work before I got
things
finished up.
  We'll try it again when we have time.
  I'm
thinking
a new
switch would be a good idea anyway, but
looking
for
any tips
you guys may have on the position of the
switch
and
getting
to that mounting bolt above the steering
column.
Thanks,

Dave
'64 Belvedere

--- On Wed, 6/8/11, 64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:


From: 64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical question
To: "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail
List
Clubhouse"
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wednesday, June 8, 2011,
7:15 AM
My brake lights now work. I
cleaned
off the terminals and shot some
electrical contact spray on them
and in
the
plunger area on
the switch
and it works great but will
probably
buy
a
switch and
replace it
anyway, they are reasonably
priced.
i did pull the grounding strap on
the
fuel
tank
and sanded
the gas
lines. With my handy dremel tool
cleaned out
the
contact
surfaces on
the strap, still nothing. So I
will do
some
testing on the
sending
unit and clean some other
connections
to
make
sure I have a
good
ground. So will see what happens.
Could
be
the
voltage
limiter in the
cluster too.
On Jun 5, 8:36 am, "Ollie"<satellite1...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
I suspect that the brake
light
problem
is in
the turn
signal switch. I have
had 2, 65 Plys and both have
  the
same
problem.
Wiggle the turn signal lever
and the brake lights will go
on
and
off.
Always the
right side on both mine.
Ollie
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave64
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011
8:07
AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Electrical
question
Another possibilty on your
brake
lights
could be the
turn signal switch.  I
think mine is bad -
intermittently
works/doesn't work.
  I have a new Daniel
Stern switch on the bench -
just
need
to get
around to
installing it.
Dave
--- On Thu, 6/2/11,
64-polara
<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
From: 64-polara<wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical
question
To: "The 1962 to 1965
Mopar
Mail
List
Clubhouse"
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thursday, June 2,
2011,
10:04 AM
Yup
all of the other lights
were
working. I
will
check the
ground strap
and I had thought about
the
switch
and
doing what
you said.
Will check
it out tonight.
Thanks
On Jun 2, 7:37 am, Dodger7...@xxxxxxx
wrote:
Fuel gauge,,,,,,,
did
the
rest of
your
gauges work
properly? if so it is
more than likely
the
ground
strap
Brake lights,,,,,
did
your
interior lights,
and dash
lights work ? if not
check fuses, if
they
did
work,
jumper the
wires at the
brake light switch,
if  they work
then, it
is
the
switch,,,, if
they
still do not work, I
would
find the  rear
chassis
harness
plug
connection, and
check for corrusion,
both
your  taillights
and
fuel
gauge
probably go
through
that same plug,,,
In a message dated
6/2/2011
6:47:42 A.M.
Central
Daylight Time,
wchus...@xxxxxxxxxx
writes:
Well the  Polara
rolled
out
of
the garage
under its
own power yesterday
afternoon.  What
a
great
feeling
after its
innards
and outards
cluttering up my
garage
  for
the
last
year.
I replaced the
fuel
sending
unit
about 4
years ago.
  While the car had
been in my garage
waiting to
go
back
together the gas
  guage had been
working fine.
Yesterday
started it
up drove
it a few
miles  and it was
ok just low on
gas.
About an
hour
later
after putting
the wheel  covers
back on I start it
up
and
the
guage is
bottomed out
below the  E
mark.So I shut it
off,
start
it up
again
same thing.
Get some gas  in
it, still the same
thing.
Later
took my wife
out to DQ
as a  little
celebration and
cruise
so
while
waiting in
line the
guage starts  to
move in the full
direction
then
stopped and
went to
empty again.
I  will check out
the
fuel
sending unit
wires and
ground strap
tonight.Anybody
  have
any
thoughts on
that?
Next issue. Brake
lights
were
working fine
  before
yesterday. Now they
are not. Noticed
that
at
Dairy
Queen  also
when i didnt see
my
brake
light
reflection
in the big
aXX  Navigator
behind me. Maybe
the
switch
for
the brake
light at the
pedal? if  so
what would be a
good
source
to get
it from?
Other than that it
  was
a
great
feeling to
be back in
the bucket seats
again all 4
windows
  down.
Will post some
pics
soon.
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