Done right, the hub and the drum survive.Done wrong, holes can be enlarged in the hub such that they have to get oversized knurl studs to be able to fit. Or drum can end up bent at the hub and be worthless.
On the new drum's, once your lugnuts are on and torqued down, the wheel holds the drum from moving.
--Tom On 4/13/2011 6:49 AM, 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
I searched the Internet, and found a post removing/install the hun on drums, saying "grind off or drill through the rivets" but the discussion on installing on the new drums says that rivets aren't needed... how does the hub stay in place on the new drums? Gary H. wrote:Kantor's version is probably just the drum. As you say, the picture indicates so as well. I'll continue to look through the archive files for the procedure if you get stuck. Thanks, Gary H. 62pluckedchicken wrote:I'll give him a call, and see what he says about removing the hubs.. I wonder if the one from Kantor don't have the hubs either. The part picture doesn't show th hub---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- -- 65 Dart GT Convertible 4bbl 4spd -- North Las Vegas, NV