Re: Water Leak at Exhaust Manifold stud
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Re: Water Leak at Exhaust Manifold stud




I would use permatex non hardening gasket maker or an RTV on the studs. Locktite red is high strength thread locker. You'll never get the stud out again unless you heat the head with a torch!

Locktite blue is for med. strength on fasteners. Red is HIGH strength, for things NOT meant to come apart. Green is bearing/retainer locker - - you NEVER get it apart EVER...... :)

Mike
----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Owen" <d4owe9@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Mopar Discussion Group" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 10:01 AM
Subject: RE: Water Leak at Exhaust Manifold stud





Thanks Fellas.I had forgotten that we had to R & R a few of the studs.Pretty sure I failed to use any loctite or sealer when doing so.Not sure I had the brains to realize that some went through to the water jacket.Oh well...Thanks again, Don

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
From: tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water Leak at Exhaust Manifold stud
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2011 19:12:25 -0800

Also, chasing the threads with a tap, and install a brand new stud.   As
everyone said, use a thread sealer.  I've never had a leak with the red
locktite yet.

On 2/26/2011 12:13 PM, Rich Kinsley wrote:
> I have a poly instead of a wedge but I'm sure the problem exists in all
> of these. There is a lot of heat and I think it dries out the sealer. I
> did use the high temp good stuff too. I had the rear 'bolt' (in my > case) > spring a leak shortly after break in. Then after some racing a few > years > later the right front bolt starting spitting AF. I could just barely > see
> the steam but heard it sizzle when it hit the headers. There's no way
> I'd remove those headers unless it was absolutely necessary. Just ask
> Paul Lenneman :-) So what I did was drain down the coolant and remove
> the bolt. clean it up and reseal it. I got pretty aggressive with the
> rear one because it happened again so on that one I gave it a dose of
> the black aviation sealer. That may bite me when I do have to remove it
> but for now it doesn't leak.
>
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> ======================================================================
> Donnie Schanz Jr wrote:
>> Usually just needs some sealer on the threads and let it set up. >> Before
>> you
>> add header, put a small bead around the stud again, and install >> header.
>> I
>> have a stud or two that are a real pain in the ass sometimes. Once it >> is
>>
>> sealed, it should be fine. Pull the studs and install new if needed.
>>
>> Good luck.
>> Donnie
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Don Owen"<d4owe9@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: "Mopar Discussion Group"<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 1:57 PM
>> Subject: Water Leak at Exhaust Manifold stud
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> OK Fellas:One thing after another with my new Street Wedge motor...As
>>> some
>>> may recall we had a successful start up and cam break in a few weeks
>>> ago.Since then, some adventures with a leaky heater water valve, oil
>>> pressure switch, and so on.It has been started and brought up to
>>> temperature several times...no major problems.Today we took her (yes,
>>> like
>>> Gary's 318, this is definitely a She) out of the garage for some >>> fresh
>>> air
>>> and another start and run.We took a few pics as the finish line is in
>>> sight.But wait...steam is coming out from one of the frontward >>> exhaust
>>> manifold studs!Back over the pit in the shop and yes, coolant leaking
>>> out
>>> from the passenger side head, through the stud/nut/stud openingfor
>>> number
>>> 2 exhaust port.We tightened all the exhaust manifold nuts again, of
>>> course
>>> it still leaks. Hmmmmm.What do we have here?Thanks, Donny, 64 >>> Belvedere
>
>
>
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-kinsley64polara.html
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>


--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.





----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.













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