Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?

[William Harrison <bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx>]

As lon as your master cylinder and caliper seals are rated for synthetic or silicone it is advisable to use it. If not you are looking at seal failure with the oldr systems. 
Again, just an opinion.
Bill Harrison
65 Coronet 2 dr post

--- On Thu, 12/30/10, bruce buntain <bbuntain@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: bruce buntain <bbuntain@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Thursday, December 30, 2010, 5:38 AM
> 
> Just to add my two kuai (I'm currently in Beijing, China)
> to the debate about brake fluid, I've been using silicone
> Dot 5 brake fluid damn near since it first became available.
> While I've never, to date, used it in a Mopar vehicle, I've
> used it in a long string of Datsun race and high performance
> street vehicles that I've owned and run. Among other
> vehicles, I currently have it in my '02 Jetta that has
> Porsche discs and 4- pot calipers and my '72 Datsun GTZ with
> a Brembo disc brake set-up front and rear. I also use the
> same fluid for my hydraulic clutch in my GTZ and also have
> in all my other Datsuns.
> 
> When I get back to Canada in a little over two weeks, I
> will rebuild my '64 Chrysler's braking system which is
> currently the stock drum/drum set-up with the original wheel
> cylinders, master cylinder, etc. While a conversion to front
> disc brakes will have to wait until this summer, or likely
> another year, I'll probably use the silicone fluid for my
> rebuild. Not that the Chrysler really needs the ability to
> withstand greater disc temperatures, but since I'm out of
> the country most of the year, the Chrysler sits, like all of
> my vehicles, for a considerable amount of time at a stretch.
> The silicone fluid, I believe, preserves the braking system
> better than non-silicone fluids do under such conditions.
> I've been largely living in Asia now for the past eleven
> years and only get home for about 12 weeks a year, and in
> all that time, I've never had any swelling of seals or undue
> deterioration of the braking systems on any of my vehicles.
> I also never experienced any problems with silicone fluid in
> my street and track vehicles when I was running it before I
> went overseas, and like Steve, I do not believe that
> silicone fluid 'draws' moisture. With my cars sitting most
> of the year indoors in dry but unheated storage (Canadian
> Maritime winters, remember), I should know.
> 
> Bruce
> 1964 Chrysler 300 Silver Edition
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: MO ( Steve Mick)
> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 3:26 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
> 
> 
> Gary, in that case I would go with manufactures
> recommendation.  My car is a
> 56 Chrysler with stock drum brakes.  Now I am
> wondering if I should use
> silicone with my Dodge Ram 1500 disc brake calipers. 
> They will be used on
> my 64 Dodge project.  Anyone have first hand
> experience with silicone Dot 5
> brake fluid in disc brake
> calipers?(new).......................MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2010 9:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
> 
> 
> > 
> > Steve,
> > 
> > Yes, I followed the lengthy discussions re: synthetic
> vs. DOT 3 & 4 non-synthetic fluids.  Master Power
> Brake does not warranty their system if one uses a
> silicone/synthetic brake fluid; they claim it can swell the
> seals in the calipers.
> > 
> > Gary
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)"
> <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:29 PM
> > Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
> > 
> > 
> >> 
> >> Gary, this will probably stir up a debate, but
> this is what I have done and 6 years experience has 
> been trouble free ---except for the fluid pressure switches
> as used on early Mopars.  For some reason they are
> short lived.  If you have installed all new wheel
> cylinders and all new brake lines and M/C , use DOT 5
> silicone brake fluid. It does not get the outside of your
> M/C rusty and wet- does not destroy its finish if painted. ,
> does not harm paint if spilled.   I do not
> believe for a second that it "draws moisture " and that
> collects in the lines. J.M.O......................MO
> >> {Steve Mick}
> >> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary
> Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> >> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 11:29 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> 
> >>> Thank you Stan, Rich, and Mark for your input
> thus far.
> >>> 
> >>> Yes, your experience on the piston diameter
> harmonizes with the information I have read re: master
> cylinder selection.  The smaller piston bore in the MC
> requires less pedal effort and more pedal travel than the
> larger 1 1/8"...MC piston bores.  The 1" bore MC should
> be used with the drum/drum and disc/drum manual setups and
> is recommended with the manual disc/disc setups because
> excessive pedal pressure is required if a large bore MC is
> used.  The larger bore is suited for power assist
> disc/drum and disc/disc if I remember correctly.
> >>> 
> >>> Not sure if the 1.032" bore billet aluminum
> Mopar Master Cylinder requires nearly the same "reasonable"
> pedal pressure as the 1" bore cast iron; I like the plastic
> resevoir and caps for filling and checking the fluid levels
> as opposed to the cast iron MC with metal bar and one-piece
> metal cap - too much chance to spill fluid I think as well
> as residual fluid dripping down the sides of MC eating the
> painted MC surface.
> >>> 
> >>> Any more information specifically on the
> billet alum. vs. the cast iron MC's?
> >>> 
> >>> Thanks again,
> >>> Gary
> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 7:39 PM
> >>> Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders -
> preference?
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> I'm not sure this will be helpful or not,
> but I used a 1 1/8" master(aluminum 2-bolt listed for a '79
> Dodge pickup from the local store for 20 bucks) on my '69
> Coronet with a MagnumHP adapter and I have to practically
> stand on the pedal to stop it.
> >>>> When I did my '64 Polara 'vert, I used one
> with a 1" bore(listed as '81 Mirada also from the local
> store for 20 bucks) and the same adapter and it stops very
> well with much less effort.
> >>>> I'll be switching the one on the Coronet
> when I get a chance to the smaller one.
> >>>> 
> >>>> Mark
> >>>> 
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary
> Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> >>>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:00:00
> PM
> >>>> Subject: Mopar master cylinders -
> preference?
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas.
> >>>> 
> >>>> It is time for me to select a Mopar master
> cylinder for my four-wheel manual disc brake Plymouth. I
> know staying with a 1" diameter MC piston will reduce the
> effort needed on the pedal to actuate the manual system but
> does anyone have exeperience/suggestions as to which Master
> Cylinder is preferred - the Mopar 1 1/16" billet aluminum
> from the Diff Doctor ($100 with adapter) or the Mopar cast
> iron unit sold by Master Power Brake ($89)?
> >>>> 
> >>>> The plastic caps on the billet alum. one
> seem like less chance of spilling the caustic brake fluid as
> opposed to the swing over bar on the cast iron unit.
> >>>> 
> >>>> Let me know from your experience...
> >>>> 
> >>>> Thank you,
> >>>> Gary Pavlovich
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have
> been removed]
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> ---- Please address private mail -- mail
> of interest to only one person --  directly to that
> person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume
> of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.
> Thanks!
> >>>> 
> >>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> >>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> [Non-text portions of this message have
> been removed]
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> ----
> >>>> Please address private mail -- mail of
> interest to only one person --  directly to that
> person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
> intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address.
> This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> >>>> 
> >>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> >>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> ----
> >>> Please address private mail -- mail of
> interest to only one person --  directly to that
> person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
> intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address.
> This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> >>> 
> >>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> ----
> >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person --  directly to that person. 
> I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and
> fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >> 
> >> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
> Guidelines:
> >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person --  directly to that person. 
> I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and
> fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --  directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
>