Good info - thanks, Ollie. Dave --- On Sun, 5/23/10, Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > From: Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim anodize remover > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Date: Sunday, May 23, 2010, 3:51 PM > > Maas polish works better than the blue lighting stuff. > Trust me. > Ollie > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave64" <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 11:07 AM > Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover > > > Butch, > > I've started using this on my stainless trim. So far > it works very well. > > Dave > > --- On Fri, 4/2/10, Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote: > > > From: Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > Date: Friday, April 2, 2010, 12:10 AM > > > > I have not tried this product, but do have it in my > shop > > and will be using > > it later in the year on some anodized aluminum trim > from my > > 64 Sport Fury. > > This product was recommended to me by a professional > > restorer. If anyone > > tries it before I do, please post the results. > Thanks/ > > Butch/ Ferndale, WA > > http://www.bluelightningproducts.com/ > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx] > > > > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:10 AM > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim > > > > > > Copy that, its staying on and the minor dents will > give it > > "personality" > > hahahahha. When I get it back I will give a good once > over > > to see if I could > > just clean it and make it look nice on the car, but > with > > Drano and Oven > > cleaner maybe I should go to the shop and do it > before > > paint! > > > > > > All great advice!!! I think I read someone around > > here had pictures of > > doing just that? If they do I'd love to see them > > > > > > > > Derek > > > > 65 Sport Fury > > > > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > > > Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:00:19 > > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > > > > Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim > > > > > > > > > > > > Derek, > > > > High level summary: very, very carefully. > > > > > > > > A lot of long side trim has screws at one or > > both ends - check > > > > carefully before prying. Many of the clips > > (especially on the C-Barges) are > > > > no longer available, so see if you can find somebody > who > > has had the > > > > moldings off a '65 Sport Fury as they could provide > > critical information. I > > > > had the moldings off mine, but it was in 1979 (hey, > that > > rhymes!). > > > > > > > > Most tool companies have "molding removal > > tools" and Harbor Freight > > > > has a nifty set of plastic tools you can pick up for > > $5-7. Cut and shape > > > > them as needed - they're way cheaper than new > > moldings. Use cardboard or a > > > > paint stick covered with duct tape as a prying-support > to > > prevent kinking > > > > body panels and chipping paint. You will probably > > find yourself improvising > > > > - I think someone here on the 62-65 list gave me the > tip > > about duct taping > > > > an old bottle opener (Don, was that you?) and > carefully > > working the drip > > > > rails off. I got mine about half way off and > > chickened out, choosing to > > > > just work around them. I may try again before > > painting... > > > > > > > > Anyway, get good info, work deliberately, and > > take your time. > > > > > > > > SC > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx] > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 7:37 PM > > > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > > > Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > That all sounds great, and not too difficult. However, > how do I get my > > > > moldings off? I'm not talking about the ones held in > > by screws, but the > > > > ones over the windows, etc. Is there a trick to > > that? > > > > > > > > > > Derek > > > > 65 Sport Fury > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Jeff Adams <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > > > Sent: Wed, Mar 31, 2010 11:22 am > > > > Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yep, just did this a month ago Steve...stripped those > long > > rocker mouldings > > > > on the Fury. Mix the Drano with water in a spray > bottle, > > but be careful, the > > > > fumes are HOT and TOXIC! The trick is to heat up the > part > > you're stripping. > > > > My parts were stainless, but I think the principle is > the > > same. Heat the > > > > part and spray it with a good coat. > > Sometimes it takes more than one application. I > scrubbed > > mine with extra > > > > fine steel wool and water, with gloves, rinsed it > with > > water then polished > > > > it. You may have to heat the part more than once. My > trim > > is about 5 feet > > > > long, so I did it in sections, heating it in front of > my > > kerosene > > > > salamander. Make sure your spray bottle can handle > the > > Drano... > > mine got a little soft, but worked ok. > > Steve Charette wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Seeing Don's mention of powder coating his > grille > > jogged my memory - > > > right before the snow last year I attempted to > strip > > my headlight > > > bezels with oven cleaner. The results were not > > good. > > > > > > > > Drano is granulated sodium hydroxide (lye) - has > > anyone tried Drano to > > > strip the brightcoat finish from aluminum trim? > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > SC > > > > > > > > Steven Charette > > > > > Promerican Corporation > > > > > www.promerican.com <http://www.promerican.com/> 888-476-1210 > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been > removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jeff Adams > > > > 64 Polara > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one > > person -- > > > > directly > > to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > > negotiations as well > > > > as > > other personal messages only to the intended > recipient, not > > to the Clubhouse > > > > > > > > public address. This practice will protect your > privacy, > > reduce the total > > > > volume > > of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar > > topic. Thanks! > > > > > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one > > person -- > > > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car > > transactions and negotiations > > > > as well as other personal messages only to the > intended > > recipient, not to > > > > the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect > > your privacy, > > > > reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content > > signal to Mopar > > > > topic. Thanks! > > > > > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one > > person -- > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car > > transactions and negotiations > > as well as other personal messages only to the > intended > > recipient, not to > > the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect > > your privacy, > > reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content > > signal to Mopar > > topic. Thanks! > > > > > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one > > person -- > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car > > transactions and negotiations > > as well as other personal messages only to the > intended > > recipient, not to > > the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > protect > > your privacy, > > reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content > > signal to Mopar > > topic. Thanks! > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one > > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send > > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as > other > > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not > to the > > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect > your > > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune > the > > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. > > >