Maas polish works better than the blue lighting stuff. Trust me. Ollie----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave64" <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 11:07 AM Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover Butch, I've started using this on my stainless trim. So far it works very well. Dave --- On Fri, 4/2/10, Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Date: Friday, April 2, 2010, 12:10 AM I have not tried this product, but do have it in my shop and will be using it later in the year on some anodized aluminum trim from my 64 Sport Fury. This product was recommended to me by a professional restorer. If anyone tries it before I do, please post the results. Thanks/ Butch/ Ferndale, WA http://www.bluelightningproducts.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx] Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:10 AM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim Copy that, its staying on and the minor dents will give it "personality" hahahahha. When I get it back I will give a good once over to see if I could just clean it and make it look nice on the car, but with Drano and Oven cleaner maybe I should go to the shop and do it beforepaint!All great advice!!! I think I read someone around here had pictures of doing just that? If they do I'd love to see them Derek 65 Sport Fury Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:00:19To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim Derek, High level summary: very, very carefully. A lot of long side trim has screws at one or both ends - check carefully before prying. Many of the clips (especially on the C-Barges) are no longer available, so see if you can find somebody who has had the moldings off a '65 Sport Fury as they could provide critical information. I had the moldings off mine, but it was in 1979 (hey, that rhymes!). Most tool companies have "molding removal tools" and Harbor Freight has a nifty set of plastic tools you can pick up for $5-7. Cut and shape them as needed - they're way cheaper than new moldings. Use cardboard or a paint stick covered with duct tape as a prying-support to prevent kinking body panels and chipping paint. You will probably find yourself improvising - I think someone here on the 62-65 list gave me the tip about duct taping an old bottle opener (Don, was that you?) and carefully working the drip rails off. I got mine about half way off and chickened out, choosing to just work around them. I may try again before painting... Anyway, get good info, work deliberately, and take your time. SC -----Original Message----- From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 7:37 PM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Aluminum TrimThat all sounds great, and not too difficult. However, how do I get mymoldings off? I'm not talking about the ones held in by screws, but the ones over the windows, etc. Is there a trick tothat?Derek 65 Sport Fury -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Adams <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wed, Mar 31, 2010 11:22 am Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim Yep, just did this a month ago Steve...stripped those long rocker mouldings on the Fury. Mix the Drano with water in a spray bottle, but be careful, the fumes are HOT and TOXIC! The trick is to heat up the part you're stripping. My parts were stainless, but I think the principle is the same. Heat thepart and spray it with a good coat.Sometimes it takes more than one application. I scrubbed mine with extra fine steel wool and water, with gloves, rinsed it with water then polished it. You may have to heat the part more than once. My trim is about 5 feet long, so I did it in sections, heating it in front of my kerosene salamander. Make sure your spray bottle can handle theDrano... mine got a little soft, but worked ok.Steve Charette wrote:> >> Seeing Don's mention of powder coating his grillejogged my memory -> right before the snow last year I attempted to stripmy headlight> bezels with oven cleaner. The results were not good.>> Drano is granulated sodium hydroxide (lye) - hasanyone tried Drano to> strip the brightcoat finish from aluminum trim?>> Thanks, > SC>> Steven Charette > Promerican Corporation > www.promerican.com <http://www.promerican.com/> 888-476-1210> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>Jeff Adams 64 Polara ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --directlyto that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as wellasother personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the totalvolumeof mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.