Here's how I did my SS spring relocation. After supporting the car and cutting out the frame area for the relocation boxes, I installed new Mancini SS spring hangars in the original location. I then used a long length of 5/8" rod, between the Mancini hangars and after drilling the upper and lower holes in the spring boxes, hung the relocation boxes on the 5/8" rod. You can then slide the boxes into the correct frame position and rest assured that everything will be straight and true after welding. The holes will be at exactly the same height as the stock position SS hangars. You will have to cut out the 5/8" rod after welding the boxes in as you won't have the room to slide them out. I did basically the same thing for the shackles. Everything was tied together as described above before welding the tubes into the frame rails. The car sits exactly at the same height that it did before the relocation. I then sold the Mancini SS spring hangars. Currently running Mickey Thompson N-50X15's. Looking for something a bit bigger in a radial. '65 Coronet 500 stroker -----Original Message----- From: Christopher Glick <MrChristopher1@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wed, Nov 25, 2009 3:54 pm Subject: Relocated - SS Springs hile we are on the subject, I have moved my springs inward 3". My question is ith the rear hanger. If I mount it at the same height as stock, I while lose ravel in the hanger and it appears it will be right (close to) the frame. If I ount it to where it has the same amount of clearence to travel as stock, then I ill be lifting the back of the car a couple good inches. What do I do or omeone who has moved the springs inward give some advice?? Thanks as always Christopher Glick 964 Dodge 440 2Dr Hrdtp ---- Original Message ----- rom: Layne Grissman <64Polara500@xxxxxxxxx> o: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx ent: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 18:01:27 +0000 (UTC) ubject: Re: SS Springs brought back up again ${top_text_ad} o all who are wondering...on our 64's, when you try the SS springs ith the stock hangers it comes up short, and not fitting exactly as hey should. I tired this approach to try and save a little $.....you an get the springs on and mounted on both sides with stock, however, hey do not line up whatsoever with the "pin" on the Rear end.... Once I installed the 2" extensions from Mopar, everything lined up, he pin seated nicely, and I was able to get all installed with no ssues whatsoever. I talked to Summit....I talked to Mopar....they aid we do need these extensions. ere is a link to Summit Racing's list of cars and what they need: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690456/Application/?query=Year|1965&prefilter=1 Layne n Wed, Nov 25, 2009 at 8:31 AM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: In one of the reply's someone said 62/63 did not use them and 64/65 did?. I thought they were all the same 62/65??. I was left to believe that 66 and newer B's needed them, and 65 and older B's did not. And yes that two inches can cause the shackles to bind in the rear doing funny things to the springs & eventually the frame, but Layne said every thing aligned up well? The springs in a bind will do funny things to the ride height also. That's the reason I had him look at the shackles going up and down for binding. Also by all means never I repeat Never use those after market adjustable extended length shackles as they will kill a set of new springs in a heartbeat. Herb -------Original Message------- From: Pat Herman Date: 11/25/09 07:58:01 To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: SS Springs brought back up again I'm confused on the 2" front brackets Layne mentions. I thought early B-bodies used the stock front spring hanger with SS springs. Are these different brackets being referred to? Pat Herb wrote: > > > You replaced the springs, I presume, because they were bad! Did you > replace > the frame bushings for the shackles in the rear? When you raise or > lower > the car do the shackles swing freely and equally & not binding? One > thing > to try is loosen the six bolts, two bolts through the front of the > spring & > four shackle bolts on rear of spring then raise and lower the car to let > the > spring bushings neutral-out just confirming nothing is in a bind. > Re-torque > them with the car on the ground. I bet the old drivers side spring was > the > weakest (Gets the most stress over 45 years especially if I was driving) > and > was compensated for by the torsion bar adjustment in past allignments. > Are > the T-bar adjusters equal? Probably not! I bet the drivers side is > tighter! Also if your car is aligned with you in it, it will sit just a > little higher on drivers side empty! > > If nothing is binding, I would get it aligned and see if that rectify's > the > problem, I am sure it will. Also remind your alignment guy torsion bar > adjustment is required first. Every time he adjusts them the car needs > to > be flexed up & down from the front & rear bumpers to equal out. If > after > the alignment, and every thing is level, and you have one adjuster Allot > tighter than the other then I would worry. Other than that I would > "Forget > About It!!" > > > >           > Herb > > 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 > 1959 Coronet 326 Poly > 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 > 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 > 1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale > 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 > 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 > St. Louis, MO. > > http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly o that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as ther personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse ublic address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume f mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. ${bottom_text_ad} --- lease address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly o that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as ther personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse ublic address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume f mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: ttp://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. --- lease address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly o that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as ther personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse ublic address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume f mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 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