RE: stroker pistons

[William Harrison <bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx>]

Steve
Thanks for the info.
I don't know which way to go yet.
The stroker kit from 440 source is a very good set up but I am also budget conscious also.
I have used ebay and swap meets to build my 65 Coronet 2 dr post.
I took out the 318 and put in a 383 that I did most of the work on.
I am going with a set of 915 heads with 2.14 intakes and 1.81 exhausts.
I used a set of Mopar templates and did the porting and matching myself.
I will use the notched pistons either from 440 source or in a separate buy.
If I had to make a choice right now and had to get the project done soon, I would go with 440 source but I have until summer to make up my mind.
Still trying to get my brakes to bleed all of the air out of the front disc conversion.
No problem getting the rear drums bled but the disc set up is a bear.
I used a booster and master from a 70's dodge truck and a proportioning valve from an S10 Chevy.
Later 
Bill

--- On Tue, 11/17/09, Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: stroker pistons
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tuesday, November 17, 2009, 11:44 AM
> 
> Bill,
>     Sorry about the slow reply - this one
> got stuck in my "draft" box
> yesterday.
> 
>     You'll need a special stroker piston -
> they have very short pin
> heights are are specific to the combination.  I have
> actually been able to
> reduce the crankshaft counterweights by .150-.200" to help
> the balance (not
> have to add Mallory Metal) and it also helps clearance to
> the block.
> 
>     You should be able to find pistons
> ready-made for either the long or
> short rod... I've heard that the long rod version
> supposedly makes more
> power as in theory the piston dwells longer at the bottom
> of the stroke for
> better cylinder fill (milliseconds at 6000rpm).  That
> would be a tough one
> to quantify for sure!
> 
>     Diamond is making pistons for the 440
> crank in a 383 (most stroker
> pistons are for the 400 block).  Check out page 2
> here--->
> http://www.diamondracing.net/MoParSection.pdf
> 
>     The stroker 383/432" would be cool in a
> stock looking car - 440
> torque in a 383 package!  The down side is that the
> 4.25 bore is the same as
> the 426 wedge and the intake valves can hit the block, and
> in the best case
> are shrouded by the cylinder wall.  The 400 block
> starts at 4.34" and with
> just a .030 overbore provides another 1/16" all the way
> around.  I put heads
> with 2.14 intakes on a 413 and had to do some serious
> hogging on the
> cylinder wall (the 413 bore is another 1/16" smaller in
> diameter than the
> 383).
> 
>     Not sure what heads you've got but be
> sure to check the intake valve
> to cylinder wall clearance.  Notching the cylinders is
> no big deal, but be
> sure you know what you have for clearance.
> 
> 
> SC
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Harrison [mailto:bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 6:03 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: stroker pistons
> 
> 
> Hello out there in mopar land.
> 
> I am doing a stroker project over the winter and have been
> told that if I
> put a 440 crank in my 383 and use 440 rods that I won't
> have to shave the
> lobes on the crank for piston clearance.
> Thats all well and good but what pistons will work with
> that combo as the
> 440 rod is 6.7 versus the 383 at 6.385.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Bill
> 65 Coronet 2 dr post.
> 
> 
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> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> 
>