RE: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings

[Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Just a Herb ramble!  If your replacing the ball joints, your car is most of
the way apart for the rest of the front end work (Labor!!).  If the upper or
lower control arm bushings or tie rod ends go bad in a year or so your going
to pay the labor all over again and will have to do another alignment.  It
will be a little more expensive now with Additional Parts & Labor to do all
the work, but in the long run you will be saving on all the labor re-tearing
every thing apart and the alignments.  Get an estimate from AF for every
thing, it sure sounds like it will be well under $2000.00.  Then you can
tell your wife about all the money you saved fixing your car.  You know like
when she finds something on sale!! (;

-------Original Message-------
 
From: 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx
Date: 8/6/2009 10:44:58 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings
 
Here's the latest of my suspension saga...
 
I went to Auto Fitness this morning (Thanks for recommendation MO)
 
Rob at AF said my tie rods were FINE and working as they should..
 
upper and lower ball joints on passenger side, and lower driver side
need replacing, but I should do all 4 (makes sense)..
 
Front shocks should be replaced, (they look like original)...
 
labor for all this $235...
 
so what is the world should I do?.. hmmm...
replace only the part that NEED to be replaced, or have a guy that
charges outrageous rates redo the entire front suspension at $2K price
tag...
 
Oh and guess what.. I'm not in jeopardy of losing a wheel any time
soon.. according to Rob at AF my car is perfectly safe to drive.. just
could be much better with some minor work.
 
LOL... thanks again Steve... and Rob at AF says Hi, and to kick your
butt next time I see you ;)
 
Steve Mick wrote:
>
> Ollie, I am ready to order my ball joints and bushings. What parts co.
> sold
> you the moog's for$48 ?....................MO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ollie" <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 9:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings
>
>
> >
> > Just ordered some lower ball joints for my Petty Stock car project. NAPA
> >
> > wanted $65 for MOOG. My parts lady got them (MOOG) for $48.
> > Ollie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tom Watters" <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 9:01 AM
> > Subject: Re: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I rebuilt my whole front-end for peace of mind, but I did know a few
key
> >>
> >> parts were bad before I did.
> >>
> >> The outer tie-rod ends on both side were sloppy.  The Pitman Arm ball
> >> was
> >> quite loose in it's socket and the drivers side upper and lower ball
> >> joints had decent play.  Yes the car would hold alignment and only cut
> >> tires a little. The car only wandered a little on the highway, but I
> >> wanted the peace of mind to KNOW what I was driving on the road.
> >>
> >> There's no way I would have paid someone $2,000 to rebuild it though. 
I
> >>
> >> spent about 8 hours or so, plus < $400 on parts.  I borrowed ball joint
> >> sockets and a Pittman arm puller from my friend, and because I wasnt
> >> saving anything, just used a pickle fork to remove the components.  The
> >> only problem I had was drivers side LCA bolt was stuck and would not
> >> come
> >> out. A cedar 4x4 and an 8lb sledge drove that out.
> >>
> >> Then took it to an alignment person who I got recommendations from by
my
> >>
> >> local club members.  It needs to be someone who's had good success with
> >> these old mopar's.  No matter what the young alignment guys tell you,
> >> there is some finess to these cars and not just anybody should be
> >> trusted
> >> in doing it.  Algined one time the right way, instead of having pull,
> >> wandering problems or cutting tires..
> >>
> >> --Tom
> >>
> >> 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> >>> I have an appointment with Auto Fitness in Omaha (MO recommended)
> >>>
> >>> I'm gonna have them look at and see what they say.. I wasn't gonna
tell
> >>> about the other guy.. just see what work they think need immediate
> >>> attention..
> >>> The "2K guy" made me feel like I was driving the "Death-Mobile" and
was
> >>> taking my life in my own hands every time I drove it... I've been
> >>> driving around in-town since (about 8 weeks)... and haven't seen the
> >>> tunnel of light yet ;)
> >>>
> >>> Ollie wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Think I would write that guy off. Was trying to get him a good job
with
> >>>> endless pockets. He ain't the only game in town. New shocks help any
> >>>> vehicle. Change those and see what u got.
> >>>> You high speed is it a shimmy or viberation? Do a careful inspection
of
> >>>> your steering componets. A shimmy may be caused by loose or worn
rubber
> >>>> bushings. The strut rod rubbers are bad about getting old and your
rod
> >>>> moves a bit.
> >>>> Only fix whats broke..the other will fly apart soon enough..lol
> >>>> The interior looks great by the way.
> >>>> Ollie
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>> From: <62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx>
> >>>> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 5:32 PM
> >>>> Subject: RE: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I was starting to come to the same conclusion.. without really
knowing
> >>>>> the technical reasons...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The guy who quoted me $2K to do the front end, also told me my
> >>>>> radiator
> >>>>> was shot, leaking, and I would start to have over-heating problems..
I
> >>>>> check my radiator once a week and the fluid is still in the same
> >>>>> place,
> >>>>> and I drove it around town for an hour in 96 degree temp.... it did
> >>>>> not
> >>>>> over heat...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> he said my floor pans would need to be replaced, but the under
coating
> >>>>> is still in tact, and I've been walking around on them while
> >>>>> re-upholstering and haven't felt any weakness.. (how does he know
they
> >>>>> need replacing?)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> the $2K for the front end was just the beginning of what he wanted
to
> >>>>> do.. the laundry list of things he said was bad on my car would cost
> >>>>> about $8K to $9K to do (at his rates)...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> by the time he was done with his inspection, I was almost afraid to
> >>>>> drive the car home, and still haven't taken it on the Interstate
since
> >>>>> then.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I thought maybe he knows what he's doing because he has a real sweet
> >>>>> hemi-charger he restored, testimonials on his site, and he's been a
> >>>>> sponsor of the HiPo Mopar event here in town for several years.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> My suspension IS sloppy at high speeds, but I now believe maybe just
> >>>>> ball joints and new shocks might do the trick (the old shocks look
> >>>>> pretty damn old)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If it turns out a I need to.. I've now bought all the parts for a
> >>>>> complete suspension over-haul.. so I'm ready for the worst, but
hoping
> >>>>> I
> >>>>> can get on the highway without tearing the front end apart ;)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ollie wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I am somewhat perplexed about the front end issues that come up
here.
> >>>>>> I
> >>>>>> cannot believe that a front end is totally wore out and will cost a
> >>>>>> few
> >>>>>> thousand dollars to overhaul.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Most our cars do not have the mileage on them to be a total
disaster.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> From my 2 cent view, the only items that would normally need to be
> >>>>>> replaced would be first, the lower ball joints and second LCA
> >>>>>> bushings.
> >>>>>> The way that our cars are set up with no coil springs there is not
> >>>>>> usually that much wear and tear on the upper ball joints. The third
> >>>>>> item
> >>>>>> that may be of issue would be the A-frame bushings. Here more than
> >>>>>> likely you have just wore out rubber. A squeak that drives u crazy.
> >>>>>> As
> >>>>>> far as outer  tie rod ends, they just don't go bad unless they have
> >>>>>> been
> >>>>>> run on real bad lower ball joints or severely out of line, ie
toe/in
> >>>>>> out. Inner tie rods last forever, same as pitman arms and idler arm

> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> All parts can be inspected. Don't let rotted cracked rubber tell
you
> >>>>>> a
> >>>>>> part is bad. Take your pry bar and pipe wrench and try to more tie
> >>>>>> rod
> >>>>>> ends, pitman arms, idler arms. A good wack with a stress relieving
> >>>>>> hammer on the drag link will cause something bad to move. If there
is
> >>>>>> no
> >>>>>> play.its good. Grease it and go.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Lower ball joints and LCA bushings can be changed at home. Of
course
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>> will have to take the lower control arms to a machine shop to be
> >>>>>> pressed.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> One more bit of rambling. Change your torsion bars first before you
> >>>>>> do
> >>>>>> anything. I put this off until one of my last projects. WRONG.
should
> >>>>>> have been my first act of terrorism. It will improve your Mopar so
> >>>>>> much
> >>>>>> your will think you just bought it new.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Ollie
> >>>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> ----
> >>>>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person
--
> >>>>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >>>>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> >>>>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> >>>>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
> >>>>> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >>>>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ----
> >>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> >>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> >>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> >>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the
> >>> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >>>
> >>> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> ----
> >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> >> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> >> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> >> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> >> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> >> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >>
> >> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> > protect
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >
> >
> >
>
 
 
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!
 
'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
 
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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