Herb, Thanks for the details. But I was up early this morning doing it before I saw this email. I have young boys so getting up at 5:30 every day is my best way to work on my cars for a couple of hours ;) But I think it all made sense and I got it right (I hope). I referred back to old emails from Mr. Dulmage. I drove 15 miles to work this morning and it seemed to be shifting fine. It took 8 quarts and I think I still might need to add a pint. Pan cover was in great shape and needed no hammer whacking. It's good to be driving again. I'd also replaced the fuel line (upgraded to 3/8), fuel pump, sending unit, coated the inside of the gas tank, fixed the bulging radiator, replaced radiator hoses, and tightened up the front bearings. Just in time for a Long Island Mopar Power Club meeting tonight. Of course, they're predicting a chance of Thunderstorms. Thanks again. - Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge) '63 Polara 500 (383) '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge) '71 Bronco On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 9:00 AM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Jim: > > If ya don't ask ya don't learn!! Don is dead on! If you take the time and > adjust the bands by torqueing and backing off you will find your self very > close to what you get doing it by sight. You have two adjustments one kind > of hard to get at on the outside by the linkage and one on the inside back > of the pan. Loosen the lock nut, back it off about 4 or 5 turns and tighten > the center stud down snug till no play at front servo and back it off till > you get about 1/4 in gap between the lever and the servo. Hold the center > stud in place and tighten the locknut. The reason to hold it from turning is > to keep your adjustment. The easy one is the inside one after filter removal > Follow the same procedures as the front adjuster arm and wola you got it!! > PS: don't get to upset if you find some metal in the pan that is normal. > (AAmco will try and tell you it's transmission time, BS!) Also a lot of > Torqueflite's have a round magnet like a doughnut stuck to the pan make sure > you clean it & the pan as well as you can with any solvent! Also start all > of your pan bolts, then snug them and lastly tighten them but not to tight > that the gasket swells out of the sides! And when your dropping the pan > remove the bolts from three corners of the pan and leave one corner tight. > Pry the pan gently from the opposite corner that is tight with a big pan 12 > qt + under it. Your going to get about 4 quarts or more gushing out from the > pan. Go slow and let it drain slow and you wont have any big mess to clean > up! Be sure to make sure the pan is flat all the way around the flange and > not bowed at the bolt holes because it will leak if left as is. Previously I > explained how to straighten it with a 2 by 4 and hammer. Hope this helps! > Any other questions feel free to ask, the only dumb question is the one you > Don't ask! > > Herb > > 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 > 1970 Challenger RT 440 > 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 > 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7 > 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 > St. Louis, MO. > > > -------Original Message------- > > From: Jim Altemose > Date: 08/18/08 20:45:58 > To: 1962to1965mopars > Subject: Band adjustment? > > While I'm replacing the tranny fluid in my 63 Polara 500 (383), I'm > Going to try adjusting the bands, which I haven't done before. Should > I follow the Service Manual and torque them to 72 inch lbs, then back > Off 2 turns, or is there a better way? I've seen techniques where you > Turn the drive shaft, and also Don's talked about "pulling the leaver > Down 1/4 inch". I gather using the factory method can result in some > Overlap in 2nd and 3rd? > > As always, thanks. Sorry for always asking basic question; but I'm > Learning and trying. > > - Jim > Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY > '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge) > '63 Polara 500 (383) > '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge) > '71 Bronco > > > ----