The only advice I recall reading is to put a *very* small amount of anti-seize on the area where the drum and axle meet. Too much anti-seize, it was argued, allows a false torque reading and too many ft/lbs on the castle nut. If the "friction between the two parts is actually what keeps the two pieces acting as one" argument is correct, perhaps it may only apply to cars driven 100,000 plus miles a year? Gary H. Willard Edison wrote: > ...on my 64 Plymouth Sport > Fury, which has the old tapered axles. I cleaned the tapers on the axle > and hub before reassembly and in what I thought was an enlightened > moment, put some anti-seize compound on the tapers so I can get the > assemblies apart easier in the future. Subsequently, I read some advice > on another website that you should NEVER put any kind of lubricant or > anti-seize on the tapers, as the friction between the two parts is > actually what keeps the two pieces acting as one, that if there is lube > between the two parts, eventually the steel key on the axle will wear > off from applied torque and the wheel assembly will spin on the axle. > This sounds like good logic to me, but I'm thinking that 140 lbs of > torque on the castle nut that binds the two parts together is enough to > eliminate that possibility except if I were perhaps going to be racing > the car, which won't happen. I'd appreciate any comments... ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.