Re: Pushbutton probs cont..
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Re: Pushbutton probs cont..




Hmmm.... I remember adjusting our 69 Sport Satellite's 727 a while ago, and having to do that with Neutral as a starting point, but our 63 FSM says to use Reverse.
Does anyone else know if it would help using Larry's method?
Sorry to sound like I'm doubting you Larry, just want to see if anyone knows whether threes a difference in 62 & 63's.

Thanks

Robert

----- Original Message ----- From: "LARRY HARRISON" <olcott39@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: Pushbutton probs cont..



When adjusting the pushbuttons have someone to hold the neutral button in
and adjust the little arm that the cable is attached to so that it is
centered on the neutral start switch button. If the cable is the right
length this should allow all the gears to be in the right place. That is the
way the "62" Plym shop manuel says to do it.
Larry in WV

----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert" <r.lane@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:16 PM
Subject: Pushbutton probs cont..




Well, we (bro Stuart & I) managed to get a few more hours on the Polara at
the weekend, trying to get to the bottom of our pushbutton woes.
Took Schuyler's (amongst others) advice and dropped the pan to get a
better idea of what's going on inside. Must admit we didn't really know what
we were looking for, as the manual doesn't appear to give any idea of what
the cable operates inside the trans, but trusted the advice that it'd all
become clear once 'inside'!
(See pics on link below)
Starting point was that no gears could be selected, except occasionally
the Neutral pb would stay latched in. Kind of.
First of all, removed the adjuster locking screw and backed off the
adjuster a few turns, as per FSM instructions. The manual then says to
insert a screwdriver to release the cable. With the car on jack stands, and
with just about enough room to get under the car, and with oil still
dripping from the trans, I defy anyone to be able to get a screwdriver where
it's suppose to go, and be able to see what you're doing!!
Even with the oil-pan dropped, we couldn't see for definite how the cable
separates from the mechanism inside, so we opted to leave the cable attached
and just try and re-adjust it.
What was clearer with the pan removed, was the (what I'll call a) plunger
that moves in and out when the pushbuttons are operated (marked 'A' in the
pics). With the adjuster backed off, pressing the buttons made the 'plunger'
move back and forth just enough to see where R, N, D, 2, 1 should be.
With my glamorous assistant (ahem) topside keeping the R button pushed in,
I made sure the plunger was all the way back in the R position, then pushed the cable back in, and started screwing the adjuster back in so it just came
up to contact the face of the gearbox. Found it hard to get exactly the
point where the 2 surfaces came into contact, so backed it off and tried
again. Happier that the adjuster was approx in the right position to start
counting holes, proceeded with the FSM method of setting the adjuster.
While I was still under the car, Stuart said the buttons were latching &
holding their positions, at least a lot better than before. Just 1st gear
wasn't being selected so we worked out which way to turn the adjuster and
turned it by 1 hole-pitch to see if it made any difference. Didn't really
have the desired effect, but were happy we'd got a lot closer to having some
gears back. A bit more adjustment may get it all set up correctly, but we
want to try and lube the cable itself next. Had to leave it there for the
day, as we both have wives & kids that think there's more to weekends than
working on the car!
One area for concern with the cable, we're not sure if it's been affected
by being about 1/2" away from he exhaust (see pics). It's been lagged in
some type of protective foil (previous owner maybe?), but I don't know if
some of our problems could be due to the cable not moving freely in the
outer.
We thought it best to order a new cable (& the parking one, while we're at
it) so that we can see easier what we need to do to remove the old one(s).
Still a bit concerned about damaging the selector unit when removing the old
cables.
First of all tho, we'll try to lube what's there and see if a bit more
adjustment gets us to where the car's useable again. That way we can fit the
new cables when they arrive. Still got our vibrations to sort out, so cant
afford to have it sitting, garage-bound for much longer.

If anyone can advise, looking at the pics, how to separate the cable from
the trans, I'd be very grateful. There's a small circlip ('B') that looks
like it retains the cable in some way, but the manual didn't mention it so
we left well alone.
And if there's any more tips on getting all the gears, that's be great
too!

Photos:
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rob426uk/album?.dir=/55f8scd&.src=ph&.tok=phpimSGBsl3SQHql

Sorry for the long rant by the way,

Best Regards

Robert
63 Polara 500
England




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.




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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.












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