Re: Pushbutton probs cont..

["Gary B." <wedge65@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

 Robert, After you take out the 1/4" bolt holding the wheel with holes in 
it, you pull the cable housing toward the front of the car and it will slide 
out of the transmission with about 1/2"-1" clearance with the cable core 
still hooked to the transmission. Then you can insert a small slot 
screwdriver in the top area of the cable hole and there is a release spring 
wire close to the top sticking up ( it will be at about either 11 o'clock or 
1 o'clock). You move the screw driver handle to where the tip moves side to 
side and pushes on the spring wire side to side,. while gently pulling on 
the cable. What you are trying to do is unwind the spring where it will 
release the cable end. Don't give up and you will finally push on the 
release spring sideways and the cable will come out of the transmission. It 
will have a pointed end on it so it is easy to reinstall a new one.
 To adjust the cable with the pan off, I always use a small mirror with a 
extending handle to look above the rooster comb with a light where you can 
see and  look to be sure the ball sits in the detent made for it with the 
transmission in reverse. Then you can get someone to push the buttons and 
with the mirror check and be sure it is falling in the detent for each gear. 
It take a little time but it always works for me. Good luck with it. Sorry 
for the long post. Gary Bradshaw Ft. Worth, Texas


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert" <r.lane@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: Pushbutton probs cont..


> Well, we (bro Stuart & I) managed to get a few more hours on the Polara at 
> the weekend, trying to get to the bottom of our pushbutton woes.
> Took Schuyler's (amongst others) advice and dropped the pan to get a 
> better idea of what's going on inside. Must admit we didn't really know 
> what we were looking for, as the manual doesn't appear to give any idea of 
> what the cable operates inside the trans, but trusted the advice that it'd 
> all become clear once 'inside'!
> (See pics on link below)
> Starting point was that no gears could be selected, except occasionally 
> the Neutral pb would stay latched in. Kind of.
> First of all, removed the adjuster locking screw and backed off the 
> adjuster a few turns, as per FSM instructions. The manual then says to 
> insert a screwdriver to release the cable. With the car on jack stands, 
> and with just about enough room to get under the car, and with oil still 
> dripping from the trans, I defy anyone to be able to get a screwdriver 
> where it's suppose to go, and be able to see what you're doing!!
> Even with the oil-pan dropped, we couldn't see for definite how the cable 
> separates from the mechanism inside, so we opted to leave the cable 
> attached and just try and re-adjust it.
> What was clearer with the pan removed, was the (what I'll call a) plunger 
> that moves in and out when the pushbuttons are operated (marked 'A' in the 
> pics). With the adjuster backed off, pressing the buttons made the 
> 'plunger' move back and forth just enough to see where R, N, D, 2, 1 
> should be.
> With my glamorous assistant (ahem) topside keeping the R button pushed in, 
> I made sure the plunger was all the way back in the R position, then 
> pushed the cable back in, and started screwing the adjuster back in so it 
> just came up to contact the face of the gearbox. Found it hard to get 
> exactly the point where the 2 surfaces came into contact, so backed it off 
> and tried again. Happier that the adjuster was approx in the right 
> position to start counting holes, proceeded with the FSM method of setting 
> the adjuster.
> While I was still under the car, Stuart said the buttons were latching & 
> holding their positions, at least a lot better than before. Just 1st gear 
> wasn't being selected so we worked out which way to turn the adjuster and 
> turned it by 1 hole-pitch to see if it made any difference. Didn't really 
> have the desired effect, but were happy we'd got a lot closer to having 
> some gears back. A bit more adjustment may get it all set up correctly, 
> but we want to try and lube the cable itself next. Had to leave it there 
> for the day, as we both have wives & kids that think there's more to 
> weekends than working on the car!
> One area for concern with the cable, we're not sure if it's been affected 
> by being about 1/2" away from he exhaust (see pics). It's been lagged in 
> some type of protective foil (previous owner maybe?), but I don't know if 
> some of our problems could be due to the cable not moving freely in the 
> outer.
> We thought it best to order a new cable (& the parking one, while we're at 
> it) so that we can see easier what we need to do to remove the old one(s). 
> Still a bit concerned about damaging the selector unit when removing the 
> old cables.
> First of all tho, we'll try to lube what's there and see if a bit more 
> adjustment gets us to where the car's useable again. That way we can fit 
> the new cables when they arrive. Still got our vibrations to sort out, so 
> cant afford to have it sitting, garage-bound for much longer.
>
> If anyone can advise, looking at the pics, how to separate the cable from 
> the trans, I'd be very grateful. There's a small circlip ('B') that looks 
> like it retains the cable in some way, but the manual didn't mention it so 
> we left well alone.
> And if there's any more tips on getting all the gears, that's be great 
> too!
>
> Photos: 
> http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rob426uk/album?.dir=/55f8scd&.src=ph&.tok=phpimSGBsl3SQHql
>
> Sorry for the long rant by the way,
>
> Best Regards
>
> Robert
> 63 Polara 500
> England
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
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>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.