RE: steel wheels Back in the day

[ntolerance <ntolerance@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

If you read Mopar Muscle magazine, every so often they have an article 
written by a guy named Andy Finkbiener. I bought a set of wheels from 
any that he had made for his 65 coronet. At the time the car had an std 
width 8.75 rear and mini tubbed fenderwells. The car has changed some, 
but I bought the old steel wheels from him set up for the mini tubbed 
car. These are not oem wheels. They have a dual wheel lug pattern and no 
dog dish hub cap mounting ring. Andy welded some tabs on the wheels to 
hold the dsog dish.

I have pics online if anyone would like. Should be the right offset for 
any early B with mini tubs.

Doc.


Don Dulmage wrote:
> 
> 
> have made up several wheels. We used to make our own 13 and 12 inch wide 
> Crager  wheels for drag cars. We started with a 15 X 6 wheel  cragar SS 
> no- reversed and would slice the rear side of the wheel off in a large 
> lathe (or a brake drum lathe if you have a sharpe tool and a good pair 
> of ear muffs.) We would make sure the wheel was cut as straight as 
> possible. Next we would have a hoop made at the local metal fab shop. We 
> would measure exactly the distance around the rim where we cut it in 
> inches and would order the hoop exactly that long , rolled but not 
> welded. Using either a set of long necked welding clamps  and later an 
> metal band with gear clamps fastened to it we would stack the front un 
> modified section of the wheel upside down , pull the hoop tight and tack 
> it at the sides about 8 places and at the ends , then place the rim lip 
> we cut off originally on top of the hoop and centre it with clamps  (or 
> the band) and tack it several places. We then mounted it back on the 
> lathe and checked it . We would aim for less that 1/16 runout which is 
> BTW better than a new cragar is out of the box . When we got it right we 
> would weld it at opposite sides in 2 inch increaments avoiding at all 
> costs the tendanxcy to weld  just the bit extra without going to the 
> opposite side no matter how short it was. . I had a set on my Hemi Dart  
> both in plain steel wheels and later cragars. I think they (cragars ) 
> are still around today some 30 years later. Also made a set for a BB 
> camaro , a dragster  a stock car etc etc.  Mostly it was a time thing. 
> Frank Elliot of Drag Supply in TO taught me how. When I suggested as 
> some of you are thinking right now that it wasnt strong or safe Frank 
> said to me "Well Don I leave in a 3400 pound car at 8800 RPM with an 60 
> lb flywheel and I have never broke one in 12 years of racing" I had no 
> comeback and tried it . Frank ran a beautiful SS B / A/MP 68 Cuda for 
> many years at Cayuga . This allowed us to run wide slicks without 
> narrowing the rear end but with a wide ffest rim like is on all current 
> new cars. It you are nervous about your welding skills do the tacking a 
> trueing and get a pro to weld the final weld. All I can say is "it 
> werked fuer me". The Hemi dart on my Sympatico webpage is wearing the 
> first set I ever made
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)
> http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
> http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/index.html
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

http:///u/?.. 
Or send an email to: 1962to1965mopars-unsubscribe@


http:///?p=