heavy oil

[Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

First seal can be replaced in the cr in about an hour. piece of cake.
There were a fw bum seals coming out of felpro and Momma mopar a while back. I have since switched to corteco as i had to replace on under warranty in a 383 dart i did. 
Tey changed the sulpplierofthier rearsdeals and the white expandable oil seal holder seals wich you soak first and then istall were not expanding properly. Corteco are neoprene and work fine. 
Rings are rarely ther days at fault however racing ring ie lowtension will use oil on the street . rule of thumb though is that of the plugs are getting oily then it is  valve guides or seal. 
personally i absolutely hate the bronze guides as they are almost always trouble. We use SBI cast iron here. 
Alos valve seal can be a big problem as if you rn anything in the way of a cam then the retainer will smack the seal and usually bust it unless you shorten it to allow enough clearance.
Bouncing vacumm gauge s a sign of valve train problems. I would jerk the heads and sort it out. 
Also total seal rings can cause a bit of smoke since they seal so well that they will suck oil if they have a chance. We quite using them in streeet engines for that reason. 
rings
For an engine that is reringed but not bored use cast rings. For an engine with properly reconditioned cylinders  , bored and honed use moly rings. Do NOT use Chrome rings for anything. 
Sealed power rings have a habit of the oil rail popping over each other atthe ends and that will cause problmes in oiling. I like to use Hastings forthat reason asthey do alow that to happen 
Don
Author of
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Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
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