Float sealed & All back together . Fuel Gauge reading normally.Added 'huge Jaguar V12 Mann fuel filter between steel line and mechanical pump & K&N seethru filter above valve cover before line feeds New Edelbrock AVS2 carb.New Mechanical pump sucked gas with 6 rounds of cranking and looked for 'weeps' at connections as K&N fuel filter filled. All good.This past winter's Polar Fridge DID NOT damage Ignition module ( as did previous two winters) and The Mighty 413 attempted to fire. Few more cranking rounds & squirt of starter fluid & the engine began to Purr.However, the New carb is demonstrating ' hesitation' & engine stalling upon 'throttle release'. Also discovered the (Electric) Choke is not opening properly (suspect mechanical issue). So disconnected the winding & found mechanically the choke is not opening as it should.Is something mechanical inside binding - that's the ? Now.So- am starting from 'scratch' with idle mixture screws 'resetting', looking at accelerator pump adjustment options & seeing what is preventing choke from properly opening to vertical.My suspicion is after running Engine very fast (suspect @3000rpm -hand opening throttle) and letting spring close butterflys, the not fully opened choke plate is 'flooding' engine and stalls it out. It immediately restarts (using remote button starter right at engine).Year ago with all these unknown ignition & fuel supply issues (?s) bought New AVS2 1906 Edelbrock replacing late 90s 1400 series.Previously ( Last Fall) got authorization from JEGS/ Edelbrock to open new carb & found carb bowl not filling properly explaining why accelerator pump wasn't working & engine would only purr at idle. (Replaced fuel pump and decided to examine fuel pickup & known issue with sending unit, and the tank with digital camera. 39,187 original miles.Nothing seems to work right 'NEW' anymore.The old not joke if N0S (New Old Stock) vs NEW- Never Ever Worked.But hope to sort it out this week.As shared, engine & Bay totally detailed. Repainted & 'A Joy to View' so hoping these final efforts will finally pay off.Will share what I find.With no rain today & roof dry, Had to examine & make some roof/ flashing repairs today. Gave me oppo6to take a break & reflect on the status.Know I might have to pull carb & open it up again. Did use Hylomar on the intake manifold gasket, so should pull off easily. Will pay close attention to the choke linkages connections and interactions with fast idle cam, choke winding cover link rod- etc.AVS slightly different linkages rods than the Performer series.I'm a MOPAR Guy from my 1956 teenage years, but ironically I have a 62 Buick Skylark with the 315 cu in Aluminum Hi performance V8 which has its ORIGINAL Rochester 4GC carburetor. I have almost solved the well known, well documented left turn stalling issue. No head gasket issues so many have had with these early GM Aluminum engines. The engine ALWAYS Fires right up and runs beautifully and it has NEVER been apart- 116,000miles.The ironies of our Afflictions of enjoying our early 60s Automotive experiences.Sherman D TaffelColumbia MDOn Tue, May 3, 2022, 6:39 PM Michael <493mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:--When draining brass floats put hole on bottom and blow compressed air across the hole. It creates a low pressure area which pulls the fuel right out.
Mike
On 4/30/2022 10:50 AM, Sherman D Taffel wrote:
--I've been working on 63 Imperial for quite awhile: ignition module, carb replacement, fuel delivery issues, total engine & bay 'refurbishment '.
Finally got that locking ring free. Was about to use Dremel but tried prying up outer ring lip & ring (one slot allowed). After an hour. Finally got it.
Drained 9 gallons & then still measured 3" in tank with digital inspection camera. Pulled sending unit & screen pickup.Digital camera revealed monimal Tank bottom rust compared to 61 Lancer. 63 DART & Fiero.Had no blockage with elec Pump draining thru gas line at Front of Engine. Pickup screen had absolutely NO Clogging, totally clean.
Tested sending unit. Got 9.9ohms to 60 ohms- smooth increases & decreases all the way. So why no fuel gauge readings except E?
Pulled brass float off C retaining wire. Cleaned it up. shook it.
AHAH- Filled with fuel.Next was to find the pinhole.
Watched where fuel made float 'wet'..
Took digital pics. Expanded pics. Found crack- not along solder seam but perdindicular in C recess where wire holds float. Quite a crack under 10x pic expansion.Usually on brass floats pinhole is in solder joint. Let float drain overnight. Will solder the crack. Should solve fuel gauge Ops. ( Gauge read full when blue wire grounded, nothing wrong with gauge.
So, all in all, very good news.
Even using pillows. Lifting head to work under/ hands over Differential to access tank locking ring was not easy.. Life at 77 going on 38.
Carlisle looking more feasible!
Sherman D Taffel63 Crown SouthhamptonColumbia MD
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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