RE: discouraged in florida. sort of long.

[Earl Helm <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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Andy,

I feel your pain. Doing a complete resto on a car that far gone can
be a real pain. First it is lots of work, second you need the tools to
do it. If you don't have the tools, then it will twice as expensive as
you think by the time you get through buying them, or having someone
else do the work. Remember rust is like ants, where there is one,
there are 100 more you don't see.

Plus there is the time. Mark my words, "It will take at least twice if
not
three times as long as you think, and cost many times more". If that
is what you want to do, then it is cool. But many times it is better to
save your money and get a new rust free girl friend to fall in love
with.

I have done it both ways, and I much prefer to get the best car I can
afford to start with after doing it both ways. This emotional attachment
we get to cars is hard to explain to people who don't have the bug,
I guess it is like climbing a mountain, (which I don't get). Sometimes
it is hard to get your head to tell your heart what to do. Just get a
pad of paper and start a plus and minus column, and try to
figure it out.

Earl



Here's a question for the older, wiser, more experienced heads on this 
list. I love my '62 dart 440, no ifs ands or buts. Her name's Ramona. I 
got back to florida this summer planning to roll up my sleeves and give 
her the total body overhaul she desperately needs.

BUT. Because of the rust/corrosion, even a comparably simple operation 
like removing a front fender to sandblast becomes complicated--bolts are

frozen, breaking off, and--the worst--in some cases the rust has 
disfigured the fittings to the point where, rather than the bolts 
unscrewing, the fitting breaks free of its weld and the bolts just turn.

There's major rust-through on the following areas--front of the floor 
pan, passenger side front quarter panel, passenger side rear quarter 
panel, and there's almost nothing left of the trunk floor at all, just a

big, gaping, jagged hole. Alarmingly, the fuel and brake lines, which i 
installed less than a year ago and which are treated steel, have aready 
begun to show signs of oxodizing.

She also has mechanical problems in the transmission (stuck in 1st gear 
and leaking), the differential/driveshaft is oxodized--basically the 
only thing that's holding up the way it should be is the 318 engine, 
which I worked on last summer hoping to get the car out to New Mexico 
and a drier, more steel-friendly climate and finish the job at my 
leisure. That's proven impossible.

My question is basically this--when do problems piling on top of 
problems become too much? based on my description, is she salvageable or

should i start parting her out while the body's in at least a partial 
state of disassembly and before she's a pile of brown dust? I would 
appreciate the benefit of you guys' experience & candid responses.

thanks,
andy.

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
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recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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