Re: Break in/synthetic oil

[Donald Schrader <schrader@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Break in is just that....not Break.

Run engine until up to running temp with slow throttling to 1500 then 2000
to 2500 to 3000.
Take out and drive the same way mild acceleration 30 mph- 45mph to 50 mph to
70 mph
head back to the shop recheck all connection and fluid levels,,drive
normally for 500 miles - change oil and filter switch to synthetic oil at
next change 2000 miles.

driving normal is up to each person- for some it's always mild for others
it's thrash it when ever I can.....go or blow.
A Engineer from Chrysler can to St.Louis  when they announced Direct
Connection and put on Performance classes ...I have followed this now for 25
years with good results.
Don S.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert neal zimmerman" <northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: Break in/synthetic oil


> Is it true what i heard, about breaking an engine in. I remember people
> used to say stay out of it for at least 500 miles, but I heard somebody
> recently saying to tromp it or theres something about the rings not
> setting right or something like that, that will happen, what is it?
>   Neal Zimmerman, Eugene Oregon
> On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:45:31 -0800, "GARY WILSON" <MOPAR413@xxxxxxx>
> said:
> >
> > I tried to use the grafite oil that Arco use to sell to break an engine
> > in.  Didn't work.  Changed to reg 30-  and broke it right in.This was
> > back in the late 70s.  Same with the synthetic.   Need to break the
> > engine in with 30w then you can use the synthetic.
> > MOPAR413 (Gary) 64 Polora 500
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Richard Kinsley<mailto:r.kinsley@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >   To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx<mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >   Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 11:45 AM
> >   Subject: Break in/synthetic oil
> >
> >
> >
> >       I took all the auto shop classes available at Saddleback JC in
> >       Mission Viejo, CA back in the ' 73 - ' 74 era. One of the items I
> >       got pretty excited about was a seminar regarding the then new EON
> >       E-11 synthetic oils. (EXXON later made a deal with them and they
> >       changed the name to NEO) It had the same viscosity from like -260F
> >       to plus 400F. (Just trying to remember) The big thing was it had
> >       much better bearing support and less friction. Engines would run
> >       cooler with less wear and no sludge or gum build-up. It's a
solvent
> >       based oil which actually would dissolve old build-ups also. This
> >       was a problem with a less than clean engine. If you had lot's of
> >       sludge and alot of play it could loosen all the junk and plug up
> >       oil flow and/or loosen bearing clearances more to cause slop and
> >       maybe blow-by. Generally I believe they said an engine should only
> >       have about 25K or less on it or you shouldn't switch to it. Also
it
> >       was such a good lube that it would prevent proper break-in because
> >       the rings might not seat. I did use it in my brand new '76 Pontiac
> >       Grand Prix but after about 2K for break in. They said you could go
> >       25K between oil changes and I did with this car but I did change
> >       the filter a couple times and top off the oil again. I used it a
> >       couple other times and always noted reduced engine temp, better
oil
> >       pressure and mileage. It's just pricey. It's a bit scary after
> >       cruising the freeway to stop and watch the oil pressure drop way
> >       down but that's a characteristic of the synthetic and not really a
> >       problem. I like it but not for break-in.
> >
Rich
> >
Kinsley
> >
> >
'64
> >
Polara
> >
4
> >
door
> >
> >   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >   ----
> >   Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> >   directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
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> >   recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> >   protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the
> >   content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> >   '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html<http://www.1962to1965mopa
r.ornocar.org/mletiq.html>.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> > content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >
> >
>
> --
> http://www.fastmail.fm - A no graphics, no pop-ups email service
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
>
>

----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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