RE: Coils
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RE: Coils



Tom,
It's been a long time ago that I studied about coils, but I thought that 
the coil gets less than 12 volts while the engine is cranking in the 
starting circuit.  When the key goes to the "on" position, the current 
goes through the ballast resistor, which knocks the voltage down to 
equal that of the starting circuit.  Like I said, it's been a long time, 
so I could be wrong.

Mopar Performance lists 0.1 OHM for the electronic ignition and 0.25 OHM 
for what they call a mechanical advance distributor.  I'm not sure if 
that means a point style or not....Brian

Thomas R Hansen wrote:
> 
> 
> On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:25:51 EST Dodger7998@xxxxxxx writes:
> > 
> > I have changed over at least 8 point style systems, to stock 
> > electronic, and 
> > on all but one of them have used the original points style coil, 
> > have never 
> > had any problems, one other example is my youngest boys ford powered 
> > roadster 
> > pickup, which I took the electronic box off of a chrysler, wired it 
> > to the ford 
> > electronic distributor, and then to the original ford coil.  I 
> > personally 
> > think that the use of an aftermarket high out put coil would take 
> > out the box 
> > quicker than any thing else, as the increased current needed to 
> > operate the HO 
> > coil might overload the contacts in the electronic box.
> >                                                                      
> >          
> >       dodger
>  Isn't the ballast resistor what saves the ECU and coil from burn-out? 
> The coil will only get a true 12 volts power when cranking, and for a
> short time after the engine starts.  Current flow causes the ballast to
> heat up, then reduce voltage to the coil. The extended dwell, related to
> the electronic switching, is where the coil builds up it's power. Is 
> this
> right or wrong?  Tom 



'64 Belvedere
Woodstock, IL.

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