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This is just my opinion based
on experience and advisement. I think that the heavier weight oils
are recommended for high heat conditions.
On my old Harley
Shovel-head ( New engine from the factory) It was recommended to use 50
weight air cooled engine oil. I put an oil cooler up in front
of the engine and a oil pressure guage in the dash, right in front of
me. I don't remember now just what the oil pressure was normally, but
if I rode i
n the rain, throwing cool water
on the oil cooler, you could watch the oil pressur rise and the hydraulic
lifters would start making noise. Run out of water on the highway and pressure
would drop and lifter noise would go away. When Harley came out with a
multi viscosity oil, I used it and never had the problem again.
I have been advised not
to use a heavier weight oil in a new engine. So, I use 10W 30
instead of the 20 -50
.....................................MO
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 1:15
PM
Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives
No flame war here, and I apologize if it appeared I was flaming
you, I would highly recommend you use 10w40 in your car,
I elect to not use it. Unlike auto manufactures that will not
warranty damage caused by 10w40 to your engine, your PhD
Father Knows Best! You stated, "There's nothing wrong
with 10w40 oil if has an applicable rating." Absolutely correct,
but 10w40 does not have a applicable ratting for our cars.
Again correct about the additive packages, and as I said they have to
overload the 10w oil with additive to meet 40w rating. The
bad part is heat breaks the excess polymers down turning them into
abrasives. And I believe we all can figure out what abrasives will
do in your engine. This has been discussed in the past, and I
don't want to rehash it again. Just use what you feel comfortable
using. But that little puff of smoke coming out of your tailpipe
when you start it is more than likely brought to you care of
10w40.
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and yours.
Herb
1954 DeSoto Firedome Estate Wagon
276 HEMI
1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
4-Sale
1959 Dodge Coronet 326
Poly
1960 Chrysler Valiant V100
Wagon 170 3 speed
1961 Plymouth Sport Suburban
Wagon 318 Poly
1961 Plymouth Valiant V200
Wagon 170
1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon
318 Poly
1963 Plymouth Fury 2D/HT 7.0L Gen
III HEMI
1963 Plymouth Sport Fury
Convertible 361
1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst
440
1979 Dodge Aspen Sport Wagon
360
1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
2014 Dodge Journey
St. Louis, MO.
&
-------Original Message-------
Date: 12/16/2014
12:12:56 PM
Subject: Re: ZDDP
Additives
I'm going to do this as best as I can without starting a
flame war, but...that makes NO freaking sense. Just because it's 10w40
weight (vs.10w30) does NOT mean it's going to arbitrarily "tear up your
engine". Your "short and simple answer" is just plain wrong, The the
additive packages that you are speaking of provides detergent agents,
anti-scuff agents, etc. Newer additive packages may and are generally
not good for old cars with flat tappet cams due to the lack of the zinc
anti-scuff agents...they tear up catalytic converters in new cars.
There's nothing wrong with 10w40 oil if has an applicable
rating.
The way they create a multi-weight oil is by placing
spring shaped polymers into the oil...they are in EVERY multi-weight
motor oil. When the springs are cold, coiled up and compressed, it acts
like 10 weight. Conversely when the springs get hot, they expand and
thicken the oil. I know this for a fact as my father is a PhD chemist.
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