Re: ZDDP Additives

Herb

1954 DeSoto Firedome Estate Wagon 276 HEMI

1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale

1959 Dodge Coronet 326 Poly

1960 Chrysler Valiant V100 Wagon 170 3 speed

1961 Plymouth Sport Suburban Wagon 318 Poly

1961 Plymouth Valiant V200 Wagon 170

1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318 Poly

1963 Plymouth Fury 2D/HT 7.0L Gen III HEMI

1963 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible 361

1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440

1979 Dodge Aspen Sport Wagon 360

1999 Durango SLT 5.9L

2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L

2014 Dodge Journey

St. Louis, MO.

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo22012.html

-------Original Message-------

From: Bill M

Date: 12/16/2014 12:12:56 PM

To: 62-65 Mopar List

Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives

I'm going to do this as best as I can without starting a flame war, but...that makes NO freaking sense. Just because it's 10w40 weight (vs.10w30) does NOT mean it's going to arbitrarily "tear up your engine". Your "short and simple answer" is just plain wrong, The the additive packages that you are speaking of provides detergent agents, anti-scuff agents, etc. Newer additive packages may and are generally not good for old cars with flat tappet cams due to the lack of the zinc anti-scuff agents...they tear up catalytic converters in new cars. There's nothing wrong with 10w40 oil if has an applicable rating.

The way they create a multi-weight oil is by placing spring shaped polymers into the oil...they are in EVERY multi-weight motor oil. When the springs are cold, coiled up and compressed, it acts like 10 weight. Conversely when the springs get hot, they expand and thicken the oil. I know this for a fact as my father is a PhD chemist.

Bottom line is just because it's 10w40, doesn't mean much. It's the rating on the oil that makes the difference.

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 8:19 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Tears up your engine. The short & simple answer, to make 10w oil lubricate like 40w they add so much additive it cannot be held in suspension under the heat conditions your engine lives in. The additive breaks down and becomes an abrasive thus killing your valve guides & piston rings/cylinders causing excessive wear. New car manufactures just stop short of saying it completely voids your warranty but will not warranty any premature wear/damage caused by using 10w40 and it will damage your engine in the long run!

When I said separate you from your money I meant selling you something that will do you no good. This is a great example of marketing & politicks, if you tell someone it is so 12 times, they belive it is! Back in the day they thought 10w40 was "all that", pennzoil advertised the daylights out of it and everyone believed it. Time has proven that is not correct.

-------Original Message-------

From: Bill M

Date: 12/15/2014 5:02:17 PM

To: 62-65 Mopar List; zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives

I'm confused. What's so horribly wrong with 10w40 weight oil? You said that like its $1000/qt?

On Dec 15, 2014 5:48 PM, "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

A good engine/machinist, Mechanic guy that knows what he is doing, or worth his salt would NEVER recommend 10w40! A parts replacer/label reader or someone wanting to separate you from your money

Would. Just my 2¢

Just like all my friends that install interiors jokingly tell people to use armor-all on their interiors and tops. They know they will be ruined in short order and they get to sell stuff!

-------Original Message-------

From: Bill M

Date: 12/15/2014 1:25:50 PM

To: 62-65 Mopar List

Subject: Re: ZDDP Additives

I've been running Valvolive VR-1 Racing oil which supposedly has enough zinc. All I can find locally is 20W50. With that said, my engine/machinist guy recommended Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs in a 10w30 or 10w40

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