Re: After Market Wiring Harness

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks,

I am still thinking about if I really want to completely eliminate
bulkhead connector.  I may keep it and do a grommet also, it will
complicate the wiring but look more stock.  I've heard good about Ron
Francis, not cheap but quality to match the price.

It looks like you have the fuse box and voltage regulator mounted next
to the emergency brake on the firewall.  I need to look, not sure if I
have the room, I suspect you have an automatic, my clutch might be in
the way.

Why did you need to go with a Ford voltage regulator?  I like the
location where you put yours but I don't see a need to move mine
unless it is a wiring harness issue.

Your gage panel looks great.  My gage cluster was beyond reasonable
repair so I just made a panel and installed Autometer gages including
the speedometer.  All I want to do is install a disconnect plug or
plugs so I can easily remove the panel.

I really appreciate the information.

Dennis C.

On Nov 9, 6:43 am, Richard Kinsley <leroar.kinsley...@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> I think the main advantage of the aftermarket kits is the fuse block system
> and the wire itself. It is almost impossible to put together a decent wire
> package on your own that wouldn't cost a fortune. The aftermarket kits have
> all the correct sizes and colors and a big plus is that they are marked
> about every foot so when it comes to troubleshooting you know exactly what
> and where everything goes.
>
> I used a Ron Francis kit and the fuse block was outstanding. It included a
> position for myriads of components and relays also. I added wires to the
> trunk for a 3rd stop light, trunk light and just another for good luck. Of
> course I had the electric fuel pump circuit there too. You will find that
> the instructions are quite generic and do not address all the variations
> you will encounter. The gauge cluster, ignition switch and light switch
> areas will be something you will have to verify and trace out with a
> factory wiring diagram. If you have any ability to read these diagrams you
> will overcome. Do not rush your work. I spent about 3 months messing with
> mine. That allows you time to throw everything down and rant and rave for
> awhile! With the Ron Francis kit you replace the voltage regulator with a
> Ford unit, and the light switch winds up GM , etc, etc.. The bottom line is
> that it works well and is a nice clean functional system. Original? No. (I
> don't care)
>
> The gauge cluster is a printed circuit and the plug-in that has already
> been mentioned in another post is not included. You can find what you need
> to address that issue at Radio Shack. They do have the pins that work. I
> can probably dig up the part number eventually if someone needs it. They
> are very inexpensive too. I must stress the point that it's important to
> just take your time and do it right. The final product will be worth it.
>
> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> ==================================================================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2011 at 12:48 AM, <Dodger7...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > **
> > I am sure that Rich (LeRoar)  will get back to you tomorrow, I know he has
> > installed one in his 64, and has already tackled all the problem
>
> >  In a message dated 11/9/2011 12:41:41 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> > dennis.2...@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> > I would appreciate any suggestions.
>
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> Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
>
>  P3110065.jpg
> 1112KViewDownload
>
>  P2240010.jpg
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-- 
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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