To keep it original or 64 factory looking I would use a Pertronix electronic ignition unit in your original distributor. It is as simple to install as changing the points. If you don't care about appearance or originality, you can use a 71 & up MoPar ECU & distributor to convert it over.
Rear main seals are about the same pain as chebies. Unlike GM's (Get a Mechanic) MoPar's valve trains are of high quality and precise tolerances, thus are un-adjustable. Sounds like you have a very slight oil leak, so I would wait and do the seal replacement for a winter project.
If your a GM guy your probably right about 110K is high mileage, but for your 383 it's just getting broke in! If an engine is well maintained it will exceed 100K all day long and it sounds as if that is the case with your 383. If it's not broke don't fix it!!
-------Original Message-------
Date: 7/6/2011 12:27:04 PM
Subject: Opinion on ignition
So, I was wondering if y'all think it would be better to keep my motor original and keep the points etc, or switch distributor out of a new electronic. Also how would I go about doing that?
On a slightly unrelated topic, how hard are the rear main seals to change on the 383? I got a little droplet after running my car, slightly annoying, but on Chevys they weren't that bad with a two piece..just sucks changing them. I gotta take valve covers off soon and put new gaskets cause of leak and I'ma repaint while off. Does anyone know how to adjust valves? I'm thinking no one has never touched the motor and it's got 110k on it...if I had the money and knowledge for a rebuild I'd love to...
But anyways, while it's running so well and not smoking at all I thought I'd keep it up...is there anyway to tell from the outside whether a motor has been rebuilt before?? The guy I got it from just had it for a short time and didn't know...figured 110k is kindve a lot of a old mopar motor like that...any help would be great!
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