Re: DOT 3-4 verses DOT 5 silicone.

[Stan Kafouse <skafouse@xxxxxxxxx>]

Just my two cents and experience. I use DOT5 in a 70 roadrunner with drum brakes. I drained out the old and just ran new through to flush out the old. When clean purple fluid came out I was done. Just pulling out of garage to road there was a solid pedal that stays solid no matter the heat. I have and do a lot of street racing at 120 there is a big difference. Ive never even added fliud to the system . Dont know about the older cars. Eberg is a jerk, but he is right, dont whine either use it or dont.

--- On Fri, 10/15/10, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: DOT 3-4 verses  DOT 5 silicone.
> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Friday, October 15, 2010, 7:11 AM
> 
> 
> What we have found is newer part degradation is much slower
> than on the
> older parts.  Old NOS parts go down hill real fast
> with DOT 5!  We
> ultimately filled a switch that hung down with DOT 3 with
> an eyedropper then
> installed it on a DOT 5 system and that extended it's life
> for sometime, but
> it still failed a lot sooner than it should have.  The
> switches on my 56, 59
>  & 61 work faultlessly. We purchased new switches from
> the same supplier at
> the same time for my 56 and a friends 60.  He has gone
> through two or three
> more switches even using my pre fill with DOT 4 trick on a
> DOT 5 system, my
> original switch I got is standing strong with DOT 4. 
> Just my observation.
>  
> Herb
> 
>  
> -------Original Message-------
> 
> From: MO ( Steve Mick)
> Date: 10/15/2010 12:49:47 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: DOT 3-4 verses DOT 5 silicone.
>  
> Herb, yes I will admit, for some reason DOT 5 silicone WILL
> in short time,
> take out the early brake light switches.  I am sure
> that is the cause, but
> don't know how that happens. I should take one  of my
> bad switches apart and
> see if I can see what happened.  I did convert
> recently to mechanical switch
> ...............................MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 12:14 AM
> Subject: Re: DOT 3-4 verses DOT 5 silicone.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Was that not you having brake light switch problems on your
> 56?  DOT 5 will
> kill a switch in no time!  Or did you convert over to
> a manual switch?  Also
> if no water in system for DOT 5 same applies for DOT
> 3/4!  Trust me moisture
> will get in no matter what fluid you use!
>  
>  
>   Herb
>  
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban 318 Poly
> 1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six  4-Sale
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>  
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html

>  
>  
>  
>  
> -------Original Message-------
>  
> From: MO ( Steve Mick)
> Date: 10/14/2010 9:52:10 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DOT 3-4 verses DOT 5 silicone.
>  
>   This topic always seems to stir debate.  In my
> 56 Chrysler, I put all new
> M/C wheel cylinders and all lines . Here is why I like DOT
> 5 silicone:  no
> corrosion anywhere. - will not hurt paint, my M/C has no
> sighn of rust and
> the paint is like new on it after 6 years--firewall around
> it has no rust,
> unlike it did have from brake fluid corrosion also corroded
> on my 64
> odge.  --No sighn of swollen rubber parts anywhere.
> Same testimony from
> others that have done the same as I. . I just can't buy the
> water separation
> theory. If the brake lines and wheel cylinders are
> completly bled of air,
> There is no room for condensation to form and so no water
> tn the silicone.
> No water-no rust.  From my first hand experience, I
> think I will use DOT 5
> in my 64 Dodge. Just my 2 cents worth
> .......................MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202

>  
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>  
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>  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
>  
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.

>  
>  
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
>  
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
>