RE: Back to Frame Connectors

[Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I've used 2X2 and 2X3, and although I haven't done any accurate measurement, I can't tell the difference between the two.  But both were a HUGE improvement over nothing at all...

I always liked the way the factory said to do it... Through the floor in the rear seat foot wells, although I've never taken the time to do it that way.  Was always a little skeptical of welding the thin floor to the thicker tubing on an inside corner.

The contoured ones are a neat idea, but I can't imagine that any two floors are the same, much less having them match something laser-cut and bent up 50 years later.  I'd prefer to see flanges in strategic positions so you could get good lap welds and some button welds from above (like the OE floors are attached to the crossmembers).

Then again, I like pushbuttons, ball and trunnions, and smooth jazz...  Just my $.02.

SC

-----Original Message-----
From: William Harrison [mailto:bbjt3@xxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 12:30 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Back to Frame Connectors

I used the tried and true back yard mechanic way of installing my frame connectors.
I'm not an engineer but 30 years of iron work instilled enough knowledge to figure out how to stiffen my frame rails.
I bought some 2x2 tubing and cut to fit between my frame rails tight.
Then I used my 110 wire feed to weld them.
They are not visible unless you get under and look close.
They don't follow the contours of my floor pans but the sure stiffened things up and I won't have to worry about getting anything out of shape.
Cost of material was about 20 dollars and time to cut and install about 3 hours.
Now if I can get the damed thing to run right I might get to find out how much torque they will stand....
Later
Bill Harrison
65 Coronet 2 dr post.

--- On Mon, 9/20/10, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Back to Frame Connectors
> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 8:20 PM
> 
> 
> The problem with the contoured ones are they are as strong as the 
> thinnest section.  That said if your looking for looks there OK but if 
> your putting some horse power to them they will eventually crack at 
> the weakest/thinnest point!  And I would surmise let the body twist 
> anyway.
>  
>  
>  
>  
>               
> 
>  Herb
>  
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban 318 Poly
> 1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six  4-Sale
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>  
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html

>   
>  
>  
>  
> -------Original Message-------
>  
> From: chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: 9/20/2010 6:37:51 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Back to Frame Connectors
>  
>  
> http://www.uscartool.com/

> http://zem9t.4pj3v.servertrust.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1

>  
> They don't do our early B's yet.
>  
>  
> Mark
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill" <Y1TopBanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:50:35 PM
> Subject: Back to Frame Connectors
>  
>  
> Who makes the frame connectors that are contoured to the floor of the 
> car, and look like they could be a factory installation? I can't seem 
> to find them but I know I've seen them.
>  
> Bill M
> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html

> http://www.marylandmopars
> net/membersrides/Bill-MelissaCoronet/Bill-MelissaCoronet.htm
> 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 01 Dakota SLT
> 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3
>  
>  
>  
>  
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>  
>  
> ----
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> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune 
> the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
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> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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