Re: engine assembly lubes & oil

[Stan Kafouse <skafouse@xxxxxxxxx>]

Please do not put grease on your cylinder walls. Maybe in the 40s thats how it was done . Total seal makes a dry film lubricant that you use with wd 40. Never put oil on the rings just a light spray with wd 40. Make sure top of bore is smooth and champhered. . Any good assy lube Royal Purple Sealed Power LL5 Etc. Break rings in with mineral oil with the correct additives Zinc/Phosphate  Rings will be broken by the time cam is broken. 30 minuyes at 2500 RPM. Then change oil to drain assy debris lint etc. Put in oil you plan on running then and stick to that oil as much as possible. 
PS Ive built and raced in stock,super stock, funny car and winston cup engines.
--- On Thu, 4/22/10, Tom Watters <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


From: Tom Watters <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: engine assembly lubes & oil
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010, 4:46 AM


I always buy a big tube of Moly-Graphite Assembly Lube from Napa for assembly, Cam Lobes, Bearings, etc. 
I get a small tube of white Lithium to mix with tranny fluid for the cylindar walls after Piston install, (keeps lube on walls for as long as it takes to drop the engine in, 1 week, 6 months, your choice.)  Also goes good on true-roller chain.   
Then I put the thick tube of Cam Lube on the lifters as I drop them to the cam lobes. 
The rest of the lube I use is 30 Weight.


Then when I add oil for startup (Last 2 cam's I did) Add Crane, or whatever breakin oil I find (Adds Zinc),  I spin up the oil pressure, drop the distributor in and break-in the Cam. 
Seems to be pretty much a proven combination.  Done it 8 or so times now, havent had a hitch yet.


Donnie Schanz Jr wrote:
> 
> The best engine assembly lube I have ever used is STP oil treatment, (stands for Snapping Turtle Piss), but it is thick enough that it stays on your parts and dissapates quickly after start-up. After you know your clearance is correct, reinstall your rod or main cap, but first drench it with STP. The STP has ZDDP in it. Never an issue using it. Cheap enough that after assembly is done, we dump a bottle all over the cam and lifters before installing the intake. You drain your break-in oil after a hour or so anyway, so the extra STP hurts nothing. This is an old methid used back into the 60's easy.
> 
> Donnie
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary H." <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 5:34 PM
> Subject: Re: engine assembly lubes & oil
> 
> 
>> 
>> There's also the Don D. "blood transfusion style" let-gravity-be-your-friend method of prime-oiling an engine.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Gary H.
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> 
>>> 
>>> It's not an issue with our big blocks. Mostly a GM thing.
>>> 
>>> Mark
>>> 
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> 
>>> 
>>> I just read some tech articles, very informative. Go to ZDDPplus website.
>>> Click on one of their tech articles that interest you. for instance, the
>>> downside of using diesel oils in your auto engine. The one I was interested
>>> in was their engine assembly paste with ZDDP. It tells about what is going
>>> on when your engine is breaking in - Why things you do are important, things
>>> you should and should not do and why. I learned alot. . One thing they
>>> mentioned that I never thought of was priming your oiling system with a
>>> electric drill and priming shaft Some engines need the distributor housing
>>> installed to make sure all oil passages get oil to them. Is that something
>>> to consider in the RB engines?.....................................MO
>>> 
>>> {Steve Mick}
>> 
>> 
>> ----
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> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 





--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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