Re: K Frame Removal

[Ollie <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I made the wood tool and it worked for me. No scars on the T 
bars.....Remember they have not been out for a 40 years.
Ollie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hammond" <426_maxwedge@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: K Frame Removal



While on this topic thought I'd throw this extra tidbit into the info
pile...  Prior to attack of the four K-frame mounting bolts I always
drill a 1/8" diameter hole in the outer, vertical side of the frame
perpendicular with where the bolt threads in from underneath. (this is
the area you are facing with the wheel removed.  Using a stream-tube on a
can of PB-Blaster or some other penetrating oil, curve the tube slightly
downward and insert it into the hole in the frame to where it's aimed at the
threads of the retaining bolts internal of the frame sections. This done a
day or two prior to removal can go a long way in the removal of the 4
critical fasteners. If one snaps or rounds off ..... it ain't pretty.

John Hammond


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christopher Glick" <MrChristopher1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 9:39 AM
Subject: RE: K Frame Removal



I made and used this very tool.  No issues.

Christopher Glick
1964 Dodge 440 2 dr hrdtp

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary H. <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 23:47:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: RE: K Frame Removal


We don't mind that you ask. :)

Here is a home-made tool from the "tech-tips" page:

Mopar Torsion Bar removal: "Take 2 2x4’s about 8" long, at about 2.5" cut a
notch. The notch will go around the Torsion Bar. Drill 2 holes 1" away from
the notch on either side. Take 4 nuts and bolts and sandwich around the
Torsion Bar. Smack the wood with a small sledge hammer to remove the Torsion
Bar." -- Dustin C.

Thanks,
Gary H.

-----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Gilmore
> I don't have a tool, but there is nothing that should have the arms in 
> tension mode. I have, by holding the upper control arm moved up and down as 
> far as I can and have shook, wiggled and done every thing I know to do and 
> nothing. Hell I hate to ask for help but these things are new to me and 
> have kicked my butt to the tune of 2-3 hours trying to remove them. I'm 
> ready to fire of the cutting torch.
>
> Rick


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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations 
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to 
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, 
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar 
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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