Re: Power Brakes/Manual Brakes
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Re: Power Brakes/Manual Brakes




I converted my 62 Dodge wagon from drum to disc up front and the duel MC was required.

Mopar Performance made a plate to mount a dual MC where your old single MC is. you have to counter sink the holes, as I recall, so the dual MC will fit, flush, on the MP plate. the MP plate mounts right to the fire wall on my car, and has worked great. but it leaves a small opening, below where it mounts to the fire wall. I just put a sticker there to cover it. I can't recall the part # for the MP MC adapter plate? or if you can still get it?
just thought I would mention it.

Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
 <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email me with your needs -
 <sky62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>



On May 10, 2008, at 6:02 AM, Nick Tiberio wrote:


Marcus,

I don't think anything is easy on our cars, and just about everything
takes effort in thought and plannning.

I converted my '63 Fury from power drum/drum to manual disc/drum for
safety. The easy part is contacting a vendor like Master Power Brake and Fine Lines that can provide all the parts you need for this conversion.

Some things to keep in mind;

1. The mounting plate/bracket for power and manual brakes is different
on most 62-65 cars. If you can find a plate for manual brakes use it.
The power brake plate can be modified to fit. A factory drilled plate
for a Midland Ross or Bendix power brake booster (PBB) is drilled
different than for a manual single master cylinder, (MC). Your new dual MC will most likely require drilling 2 new holes of the 4 in the plate.

2. The push rod from the brake pedal most likely will need to be
changed, (shortened). Adjustable rods are available with the new MC. The
plate's rod hole may also have to be enlarged at the bottom.  This rod
will also be relocated on your brake pedal. Most brake pedals are
factory drilled with 2 location holes. Low hole for power, top hole for
manual if I remember, my car is still in storage so I can't check it
right now. You will also need to relocate the brake light switch for
proper contact.

3. New brake lines for your MC, blocking the vacume port on the intake
manifold for the PBB and your all set to learn how to drive all over
again. A lot more leg on the brake pedal a lot more sooner...wow.

Nick Tiberio
FuryUs





Marcus Edell-The RevTones wrote:

But how easy is it to go back to manual? are the holes there already or
do I have to drill into the firewall,to mount the Master Cylinder? I
can't tell..Bob you're pretty Close by,I'm in Fremont..

--
Marcus"Hot Rod"Edell-The RevTones www.myspace.com/revtones
www.revtones.net

-------------- Original message --------------
From: v8magic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx


Manual brakes are far superior to power brakes for at least a couple of
reasons.

First, power brake boosters sometimes fail to boost while driving puting

the driver in a spot with an extremely firm pedal to push. That is
dangerous!

Second, Driving with a correctly spec'ed manual master cylinder gives an

easy to apply pedal with far better brake feel. It also lets the driver press as hard as he can while the booster limits total available travel,

so you cannot apply the brakes as hard. Power brake boosters also add a
numbing effect to brake feel.

Those points reflect my personal experiences driving a lot of different vehicles with boosted and non-boosted brakes. By the way, I also drive with both feet, one for the gas and the other for the brake, assuming an

automatic.

Bob in Sacramento



mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Why would you want top go to manual brakes??? So much safer with Power
Brakes. Unless you are going racing, and looking to save weight.
---- Marcus Edell wrote:

Sorry for Asking All these questions:
I have Power Brakes on my 62 Polara 500 and I was wondering how hard it would be to convert to Manual Brakes? Just ditch the Booster and get a
new Manual Master Cylinder?

--
Marcus"Hot Rod"Edell-The RevTones www.myspace.com/revtones
www.revtones.net
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly
to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as
well as
other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
Clubhouse
public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
total volume
of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




furyus63


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.



----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.












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