RE: thermos quads and cam rpm

[Paul Lennemann <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>]

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Good info Don.  What's your take on Demon Carbs?  I'm running a Carter 
AFB w/o choke.  Which I've been told is a race model AFB w/ a cfm of 
@650.
On cam/rpm, I'm running stock heads on a '73 440 with an Isky cam that 
has 232 degrees of duration @.050.  According to your formula I should 
be able to achieve a redline rpm in the range of 5800.  But my actual 
redline is @ 5000.  It gets pretty ragged at that point.  My guess is 
that valve float is the culprit.  This car is for street/strip with more 
of an emphasis on street.  So I'm not looking to dump a bunch of money 
into it to get another .5 seconds at the strip.  But I'm willing to do 
some reasonable things to let it "be all it can be".  Thanks
Don Dulmage wrote:
> 
> 
> Well thermo quads were greeat in thier day and were a huge improvement 
> over the AVS BUT a good Holley will hammer the doors of themno matter 
> what. They are a very complicaated carb . I beleive they have something 
> like 131 parts inside. are prone to float  sinking so always replace 
> them . Last time I looked no strip kits were available. 
> I used to do a lot f them and once had a fellow drive from florida to 
> have me fix one he couldnt getrepaird properly there so i am very 
> familiar. Wager is a great fan of them and alwys trys them on every 
> motor but the old Holly will beat them everytime. 
> Why? well because they are an emmision oriented carb. That is why they 
> were made and despite the huge CFM that design  and fuel curve ire 
> inherit to each other. That is not to say thaey are bad. because they 
> arent and they do make a nice working carb on a 340 etc but my 
> experience at least hs been that a good  holley well set up will always 
> be fast at the track no matter what you try. We even have a carter 
> competition thermoquad we have used butresults are always the same. 
> 
> Cam RPM 
> Duration controls RPM  lift doesnt rteally enter into it. so for a 
> hydraulic in a typical BB Mopar every degree of duration at .050" gives 
> 25.34 rpm 
> so if you have 231 @ .050" you should exect 5853. 54 RPm peak when all 
> is right. I would change that to around 5800 Rpm but it gives you a way 
> to predict it that works. 
> For a solid with 231 @ .050 you can expect a bit less as a solid gives 
> 23.54 rpm for every degree at .050" so it would  be  5437.74 or 5400rpm. 
> 
> YEs friends a solid gives less rpm for the same duration than  hydraulic 
> but it can run higher rpm so once you approach 7000  area it becaomes 
> the cam of choice. below that you ar just kidding yourself however 
> sometimes untill recently we had no chioce because really serious grinds 
> were not out there other than my old froend Racer brown and of course 
> cheater stocker hyd grinds. Nowaday there are many real good choices. 
> Don
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)
> http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 



Plyguy
'63 Sport Fury
440/727

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